Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 Review: The Best $50 Vintage Lens for Leica SL2
What if one of the sharpest lenses you could put on your Leica SL2 cost less than $50 and was made in 1976? That's exactly what I discovered when I adapted a vintage Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 to my Leica SL2—and the results genuinely surprised me. This isn't just a macro lens review. It's the story of how a nearly 50-year-old Nikon F-mount lens became one of my favorite walkaround lenses on one of the best modern mirrorless cameras available.
What if one of the sharpest lenses you could put on your Leica SL2 cost less than $50 and was made in 1976? That's exactly what I discovered when I adapted a vintage Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 to my Leica SL2—and the results genuinely surprised me. This isn't just a macro lens review. It's the story of how a nearly 50-year-old Nikon F-mount lens became one of my favorite walkaround lenses on one of the best modern mirrorless cameras available.
The Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 AI variant on the Leica SL2 via F-to-L adapter — an unlikely but exceptional pairing.
Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5: What Makes This Vintage Lens Special
I have found over the years that there are a couple of Nikkor lenses in this family that work really well for the task of general purpose photography and this is one of them. This particular copy is an AI variant made somewhere in the late 1976 to early 1977 time frame, so this lens is almost 50 years old—and just look at the image quality it produces. Lens manufacturers were on their A game at this point and Nikon was a force to be reckoned with in this area. This lens isn't even their best macro lens either, which is something that to this day surprises me a little.
What makes the Micro Nikkor special compared to other vintage 50mm lenses is that it was designed for exacting scientific and reproduction photography. That design intent required flat-field sharpness, minimal distortion, and consistent performance from close focus all the way out to infinity. Most vintage 50mm lenses were optimized for portrait distances and can get a little soft or lose contrast at other distances. The Micro Nikkor doesn't play that game—it's sharp everywhere.
It has an external aperture ring that is detented in whole stops, except the very first one where it goes from f/3.5 to f/4 for some reason. Who knows why Nikon did this, but they did, so it is there if you want to use it.
Adapting Nikon F-Mount Lenses to the Leica SL2
Before we get into performance, a quick word on adapting this lens. The Leica SL2 uses the L-mount, and to run Nikon F-mount glass on it you need an F-to-L adapter. I use the Urth version and it works well for fully manual lenses like this one—there's nothing electronic to pass through, so any mechanically precise adapter will do the job. If you want to get fancy, Novoflex makes precision German-engineered adapters that are the gold standard, but they cost considerably more than the budget options and for a manual vintage lens, the results are essentially identical.
What makes the Leica SL2 particularly great for adapted vintage glass is the combination of focus peaking and magnified live view in the EVF. You can dial in focus with real confidence even at close distances, and the IBIS works completely independently of the lens—the camera has no idea what glass is mounted and compensates for shake regardless. This makes lenses that might have been borderline usable in low light suddenly practical for handheld shooting. More on that in a moment.
The external aperture ring with whole-stop detents — classic 1970s Nikon build quality.
Minimum focus distance is a surprising 9 1/2” from the image plane. So this is right at 4.25 inches in front of the lens when mounted on my Leica SL2 camera. This also gives you a reproduction ratio of 1:2 on the image sensor, that is to say that if you have an object that is 1 inch across in reality, it will be 1/2 inch across the sensor. To get to 1:1 reproduction ratio you need help… The PK-3 extension ring will get you half that distance and to the true 1:1 reproduction ratio at minimum focus distance. All of this is conveniently engraved on the lens barrel for you should you need to look it up in the field… Also notice in these two images that the lens “pumps” air which means it has external focus movement, the lens grows and shrinks when you adjust focus, it is common belief that this is where dust gets into the lens from, when you open the lens fully to minimum focus distance the lens intakes a full charge of air and doesn’t have dust seals to prevent dust from entering the lens mechanism, so you get a little internal dust…
The lens 'pumps' air as it extends to close focus — a common trait of this era of optics.
One last thing to note about this focus mechanism is that the reason I like using these lenses for general purpose photography like travel and such is that as you can see in the above photo, the focus throw from infinity to less than 1 meter is short, so focus is fast with this lens. It also has a range focus scale, but since it is 55mm, the scale is rather small and not easy to use, it will give you rough numbers to work with but that is all.
Enough with all this tech talk, let’s take it for a spin and see what the photos look like on my Leica SL2 mirrorless camera since it has IBIS on the sensor and I can hand hold photos at unheard of shutter speeds with it.
First thing I notice when using this lens is how good it feels in the hand. The location and feel of the controls are literally in the perfect location.
Another thing I noticed was that it is sharp, like incredibly sharp. To this point, it makes sense that it would be this good due to the design intent of the lens but it has a really nice general purpose focus throw too. This lends itself to being a wonderful walk about lens. The following photos were shot on my Leica SL2 using this lens as a walkable lens. I have used another Nikon macro lens before in this same capacity, the 60mm Micro Nikkor once lived on my D810 as a general purpose lens. It works flawlessly in this capacity.
Using the Micro Nikkor 55mm as a Walkaround Lens on Leica SL2
The following photos were shot on my Leica SL2 using this lens as a walkable lens. I have used another Nikon macro lens before in this same capacity—the 60mm Micro Nikkor once lived on my D810 as a general purpose lens and it works flawlessly in that role. The 55mm is similar in character.
For street photography and travel, the 55mm field of view on full frame is about as classic as it gets. You're not cramped like you can be with a 35mm in tight spaces, and you're not zooming in on subjects from far away like you would with 85mm or 105mm. It sits right in the middle of the world as you see it, which makes composition intuitive. The short focus throw means you can adjust focus quickly as subjects move, which is more important for this kind of use than it would be in a controlled macro environment.
Where it struggles a bit is in low light. The f/3.5 maximum aperture isn't going to win any awards for low-light capability compared to fast primes. But combined with the Leica SL2's excellent high-ISO performance and the IBIS, you can push it further than you'd expect—as you'll see in the next section.
Shot handheld at 1/30 second — the Leica SL2's IBIS makes this kind of exposure possible with a vintage manual focus lens.
In the above photo you can see what I love about a camera with stabilization in it. The camera sensor is rock steady so I can capture shutter speeds like in the photo above where I was running something like 1/30 second and some of my water blur shots were 1/4 second!!! Like the one below is a 1/4 second handheld exposure and if you will look, the rocks are crisp and the water has a really nice blur to it. This is at f32 as well so there will be some diffraction in the image from that but all in all, it looks really nice.
Shot handheld at 1/30 second — the Leica SL2's IBIS makes this kind of exposure possible with a vintage manual focus lens.
1/4 second handheld at f/32 — diffraction softens things slightly but the IBIS still produces usable results.
Below is a crop from this image. As you can see, the spider webs are even visible and this is handheld no less! As long as you have some decent light this combination is really nice. When you move to a mirrorless camera body that has IBIS on the sensor, it unlocks so many possibilities with lens / camera combinations. I dont know why hobbyists dont see this sooner but a lot dont.
100% crop showing spider web detail — handheld with IBIS. This lens resolves more than you'd expect for its age and price."
Leica SL2 IBIS + Vintage Glass: A Game-Changing Combination
In the above photo you can see what I love about a camera with stabilization in it. The camera sensor is rock steady so I can capture shutter speeds like in the photo above where I was running something like 1/30 second, and some of my water blur shots were at 1/4 second! The one below is a 1/4 second handheld exposure and if you look, the rocks are crisp and the water has a really nice blur to it. This is at f/32 as well, so there will be some diffraction in the image from that, but all in all it looks really nice.
I don't know why hobbyist photographers don't recognize this sooner, but when you move to a mirrorless camera body that has IBIS on the sensor, it unlocks so many possibilities with vintage lens combinations. You're essentially giving a 50-year-old lens a set of capabilities it was never designed to have. Nikon didn't design this lens to be hand-holdable at 1/4 second—but the Leica SL2 makes it so.
Think about what this means practically. That f/3.5 maximum aperture that looks modest on paper suddenly becomes much more workable. Instead of needing a tripod for anything in shade or indoors, you can hand-hold at much slower shutter speeds and let the IBIS do the work. In a museum, a church, a dimly lit market—anywhere a tripod isn't practical—this combination keeps you shooting. It's the kind of capability that used to require carrying a tripod and a fast prime. Now you can do it with a $50 vintage lens and good technique.
Image Quality: What to Expect from a 50-Year-Old Lens
Below is a crop from one of my sample images. As you can see, the spider webs are even visible and this was handheld. As long as you have some decent light, this combination is really nice.
Let me put some numbers to what you're seeing. The Leica SL2 has a 47 megapixel sensor—a genuinely demanding sensor that will expose any lens weakness. Lesser vintage glass can look acceptable at web resolution but fall apart when you pixel-peep on a sensor this resolute. The Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 doesn't fall apart. Center sharpness is exceptional at every aperture, and corner performance is very good stopped down. The color rendering has that warm, slightly organic character that vintage Nikon glass is known for, which pairs nicely with Leica's color science.
The one area where you see the lens's age is bokeh at close focus distances. When shooting macro-close, out-of-focus areas can look a bit busy—it's not the smooth, creamy blur you'd get from a modern lens optimized for portrait work. But for general photography at normal distances, the rendering is pleasant and natural, never clinical or harsh.
Who Should Buy the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 for Leica SL2?"
This lens is a fantastic choice for:
The budget-conscious Leica shooter. Leica glass is expensive—there's no way around that. The Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 gives you exceptional optical performance for a fraction of the cost of any L-mount prime. If you're building a kit and want quality glass that doesn't break the bank, vintage adapted lenses like this one are the answer.
Travel photographers who want a dual-purpose lens. One lens that handles landscapes, street photography, and close-up detail shots? That's what this is. Pack light and still have versatility.
Vintage lens enthusiasts. If you enjoy the tactile experience of manual focus and appreciate the history of classic glass, this lens is deeply satisfying to use. It's mechanically solid, beautifully made, and feels like a precision instrument.
Anyone curious about adapted lenses on the SL2. If you haven't explored the world of adapted vintage glass on your Leica SL2, this lens is an inexpensive, low-risk way to discover what IBIS + manual focus vintage glass can do. You might find, as I did, that you love it.
Frequently Asked Questions About the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5
Is the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 good for general photography (not just macro)?
Yes — and this is the thing most people don't realize about this lens. While it was designed as a macro lens, the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 is an outstanding general-purpose walkaround lens. The focus throw from infinity to under one meter is short and smooth, making it fast to use in the field. The 55mm focal length gives you a classic "normal" field of view, and the sharpness holds up beautifully at all distances — not just close focus. I've used mine for street photography, travel, landscapes, and waterfall shots, and it handles all of them with ease. The f/3.5 maximum aperture is slower than dedicated portrait lenses, but for anything in decent light, this lens is genuinely excellent.
Can you adapt Nikon F-mount lenses to the Leica SL2?
Yes, and it works very well. The Leica SL2 uses the L-mount, and with an F-to-L mount adapter you can use almost any Nikon F-mount lens on the camera. Since the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 is a fully manual lens with an external aperture ring, you control the aperture on the lens itself and the camera handles exposure metering in aperture-priority mode. The Leica SL2's focus peaking and magnified live view make manual focusing accurate and enjoyable. There are no electronic connections needed for this vintage lens — it's a fully mechanical pairing that works remarkably well.
Does Leica SL2 IBIS work with adapted vintage lenses?
Yes, and it's one of the best reasons to use vintage glass on the Leica SL2. The 5-axis IBIS works independently of the lens — the camera compensates for camera shake regardless of whether the lens communicates electronically. With the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5, I've successfully hand-held shots at 1/30 second and even 1/4 second, which would be nearly impossible without stabilization. This opens up a whole new world for vintage lens shooters — lenses that were borderline impractical in low light suddenly become viable handheld options. The combination of Leica SL2 IBIS and vintage Nikon glass is genuinely one of my favorite pairings in photography.
What adapter do I need to use Nikon F lenses on the Leica SL2?
You need a Nikon F to Leica L-mount adapter (sometimes listed as "F to L" or "Nikon F to L-mount"). Several brands make these including Urth, K&F Concept, and Novoflex (premium option). For fully manual vintage lenses like the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5, an inexpensive adapter works perfectly well since there are no electronic connections to pass through — you just need a mechanically precise fit. Novoflex is the gold standard for precision, but budget options from Urth or K&F Concept work fine for manual glass.
How sharp is the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 on a modern mirrorless camera?
Extremely sharp — almost surprisingly so given the lens is nearly 50 years old. The Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 was designed for close-focus scientific and reproduction photography, which required exceptional flat-field sharpness and minimal distortion. Those same qualities make it outstanding on a modern high-resolution sensor like the Leica SL2's 47MP chip. At middle apertures (f/5.6 to f/11) this lens is genuinely difficult to fault. Wide open at f/3.5 it's already very good, and the sharpness only improves as you stop down. The one caveat is that at f/32 you'll see diffraction softening, but that applies to any lens at very small apertures.
What is the PK-3 extension ring for the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5?
The PK-3 extension ring is a Nikon accessory that mounts between the lens and camera body, moving the lens further from the sensor and allowing it to achieve true 1:1 macro magnification. Without the PK-3, the Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 reaches a 1:2 reproduction ratio at minimum focus — meaning a 1-inch subject appears as half an inch on the sensor. With the PK-3 ring, you get 1:1 reproduction, where a 1-inch subject fills 1 inch of sensor. If you need true life-size macro shots, the PK-3 is the answer. Without it, the lens is still excellent for general macro work like flowers, insects, and small objects — just not true 1:1.
Recommended Gear for Adapting Vintage Lenses to Leica SL2
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So in conclusion...
The Micro Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 is genuinely one of the best bang-for-buck vintage lenses you can adapt to the Leica SL2. For under $50 on the used market, you get a lens that handles macro work beautifully, doubles as a sharp general-purpose walkaround, and—paired with the SL2's IBIS—lets you hand-hold exposures that should be impossible.
Is it perfect? No. The f/3.5 maximum aperture limits your low-light shooting compared to faster primes, and you won't get smooth, creamy bokeh at close focus distances. But for sharpness, color rendering, close-focus capability, and sheer character? This nearly 50-year-old lens punches well above its weight class on a modern mirrorless body.
Get out there and grab one. You won't regret it.
Have you tried adapting vintage Nikon lenses to your mirrorless camera? Drop your experiences in the comments below—I'd love to hear what combinations you're running.
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The Hanimex 28mm f2.8 lens is a really interesting little lens...
Sometimes I just throw the dice on a vintage lens and occasionally it comes out really good and sometimes it is a dud. The Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 I picked up for $20 at Ball Photo in Asheville? This time it's a winner.
Sometimes I just throw the dice on a vintage lens and occasionally it comes out really good and sometimes it is a dud. The Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 I picked up for $20 at Ball Photo in Asheville? This time it's a winner.
I paid something like $20 for this lens at Ball Photo. Twenty bucks. For that price, even if it turned out to be terrible, who cares? You're not risking much. But when it turns out to be actually good — sharp, solid build, nice colors, usable on a modern camera — that's when you feel like you found a hidden gem sitting in a used lens bin.
This is why I love digging through vintage gear at camera shops. Most people walk right past this stuff looking for autofocus lenses or the latest Sigma Art prime or whatever. Meanwhile there's a perfectly good 28mm sitting there for the price of lunch. Sure, it's got quirks (the sun flare is real), but it's also got character and it actually works. Can't beat that value.
The Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 on my Leica SL2 — not the prettiest combo, but it works.
Hunting for Glass at Ball Photo in Asheville
I went to Ashville NC on a small trip recently and on this trip I was doing photography. Well, when it is a photography trip I always make it a point to go to Ball Photo and just “go shopping” for something interesting. They have SO much vintage gear to choose from that it is almost overwhelming to be honest. It is not for the feint of heart to be honest about it. But today found me at Ball Photo and while there I started looking for some glass to pick out… Well I found some.
All-metal construction with nice silver accent rings. Built like lenses used to be built.
We all know how much I love to shoot with vintage glass and I am always on the hunt for a new lens to play with. I have Leica glass for the Leica SL2 and use it quite often but I still really enjoy adapting some older lens to the camera and then seeing what I can get with this lens and camera combination when I go out with it. It is almost a challenge to see if I can come away with something good using this old lens… What generally happens is that I slowly build a collection of lenses that I REALLY love to use and I am starting to collect a full set of these lenses. Some examples would be the 28mm f3.5 Asahi Optical M42 mount lens that I keep in the camera bag, this lens is literally one of my favorite lenses of all time for some reason. I just love the results I get with it on the Leica SL2 camera. Well today finds me using a lens that is 2/3 of s top faster and a little bigger too.
What Makes the Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 Special
The Hanimex 28mm f2.8 is a well made lens with the whole thing made of metal (probably brass from the way it feels but it could be anodized aluminum too I really am not sure) and has some really nice accents like the little silver bands around the focus ring which also has a faux leather appearance but I am almost certain is rubber. The range focus scale is graduated for every aperture marked (sans f4 for some reason) on the aperture ring, which is a nice touch for street photography. The detent clicks on the aperture ring are nice and pronounced as well as solid, no mushy aperture detents on this lens! All in all, it is a great little lens by design engineering standards. It is even a well designed attachment scheme as well with the M42 mount as it is easily adapted to about all mirrorless cameras on the market.
The M42 mount adapter — see those three tiny set screws? That's how you time the lens if you care about that kind of thing.
Adjusting M42 Adapters (If You Care About That Sort of Thing)
Many people also don’t realize that the M42 adapter can be adjusted to get the lens top dead center of the adapter too. There are three tiny set screws on the adapter that hold the threaded ring in place on the lens adapter to adjust this. To make this adjustment is simple, just screw the lens into the mount till it seats and snug it well so it wont work loose while in use. Next get the Allen key that came with the adapter and loosen the three set screws till the lens can spin in the mount and simply turn the lens till the center mark is top dead center of the adapter and then push in on the mount while tightening the set screws back down to make it hold the ring again and your done. It is that simple. Mine is slightly off center here and I have simple been too lazy to adjust it as it is close enough for me to be able to get out and shoot anyway. I don’t normally worry about it too much as once you set the adapter once, then all the lenses will time up and you don’t have to mess with it again. Installing lenses over the years on this adapter and tightening them has slipped the timing a little and this is why it is slightly off center. Once again, it is no big deal to me and i just go out and shoot…
Look, I know there are "better" lens mounts out there. But M42 is just so easy to adapt to basically anything. You can throw these lenses on Leica, Sony, Fuji, whatever — and they cost pennies compared to native glass. Plus there's something satisfying about the all-manual experience. No electronics, no autofocus hunting, just you and the glass trying to get the shot. It's photography the way it used to be, which sounds pretentious when I say it like that, but honestly it's just fun. There's a directness to it that I appreciate.
And here's the thing: M42 lenses were made by so many different manufacturers over the years that there are hundreds of options out there. Some are great, some are terrible, and part of the fun is just digging through used lens bins at places like Ball Photo to see what you find. It's like thrift shopping for camera gear.
First outing at Hamilton Place Mall in Chattanooga on Black Friday. The Hanimex handled it just fine.
Taking It to the Mall on Black Friday (Because Why Not)
So the first official outing with this lens was to go to the mall in Chattanooga TN with it and capture some Christmas spirit with it…on black Friday no less.
Well to be quite honest, it performed wonderfully. Now to be fair, the camera does have IBIS in it and this allows me to shoot at pretty slow shutter speeds without the need for a tripod. As long as you go into the camera settings and tell the camera it is a 28mm lens, the camera can compensate for movement really well allowing for incredibly slow shutter speeds like the last photo in this string from the mall where it was 1/10 of a second…hand held. Most of the other photos are shot at 1/250 second to freeze the people so that I can show the current clothing styles as well as the general appearance of the mall in 2023.
The Leica SL2's IBIS is genuinely a game-changer for vintage glass. Without it, that 1/10 second handheld shot at the mall would've been a blurry mess — the old "reciprocal rule" says you need at least 1/30 second for a 28mm lens, and that's being optimistic. But with IBIS doing its thing, I can get away with shutter speeds that should be impossible with a manual lens.
This is why I keep coming back to the SL2 for adapted lenses. It makes old glass way more usable than it has any right to be. You're essentially taking a lens from the 1960s or 70s and giving it capabilities it was never designed to have. Nikon didn't build this Hanimex thinking someone would hand-hold it at 1/10 second in a mall forty years later.
1/250 second to freeze the people and capture 2023 fashion in all its glory.
The Christmas decorations at the mall — shot handheld at 1/10 second thanks to the SL2's IBIS.
1/250 second to freeze the people and capture 2023 fashion in all its glory.
The Christmas decorations at the mall — shot handheld at 1/10 second thanks to the SL2's IBIS.
1/250 second to freeze the people and capture 2023 fashion in all its glory.
The Christmas decorations at the mall — shot handheld at 1/10 second thanks to the SL2's IBIS.
1/250 second to freeze the people and capture 2023 fashion in all its glory.
The Christmas decorations at the mall — shot handheld at 1/10 second thanks to the SL2's IBIS.
All in all, the Hanimex performed extremely well in this role. The images are sharp and the colors are easily adjusted in post processing to give any look you want. It also doesn’t hurt to have that Leica “look” from the camera processing the colors before saving the RAW file too, Leica does something special with their processing to give the colors a look that is unique to Leica cameras. It is hard to explain, but it is a thing.
The Sun Flare Problem — Yeah, It's Bad
In the next photos I didn’t show all the images as they just reflect what it is like to shoot indoors where there is controlled light and no sun to deal with. The following photos show what happens when you have the sun shining on the front element.
Same shot as the next one but the lens is shaded from the sun — clean and sharp.
Above is the same photo as the one right under this text except that I shaded the lens from the sun. This lens cant handle the sun shining on it from any angle without showing you that it was happening with some sort of sun flare in the image. In the below image there is geometric artifacts as well as a overall glare from the sun.
What happens when the sun hits the front element. Vintage lenses and coatings don't play nice with direct sunlight.
In the below photo you can also see the geometric glare in the center of frame, this could be used to your advantage in some applications like vintage style portraits where you position the subject to where the flare adds to the aesthetic of the image. Here the flare doesn’t do that though and is more of a nuisance that anything else. So this is something to keep in mind when using vintage glass, you will run into these kinds of problems from time to time like the older generation has to do…lol.
That geometric glare in the center? Classic vintage lens behavior. Could be useful for portraits if you position it right.
Can You Shoot Portraits with a 28mm? Actually, Yes
Lastly, can you make portraits with the 28mm lens? The answer is yes, you can as long as you are careful with the composition and keep the subject centered like I did here. The 28mm lens can distort toward the edges so it is imperative to keep the person in the center of the photo as much as humanly possible if you want the image to turn out like anything you want at all. Maria was gracious and allowed me to make her portrait at the mall using one of the advertising lights as a “studio light” to give us nice diffused side light and I think the image turned out really well for a 60 year old lens with improvised lighting.
Maria at the mall using an advertising light as improvised diffused side lighting. Not bad for a 60-year-old lens.
Now, shooting portraits with a 28mm isn't what most people would recommend. The conventional wisdom is 50mm or 85mm for portraits, and there's good reason for that — longer focal lengths are more flattering and don't distort faces. But if you keep your subject centered and don't get too close, a 28mm can work. The key is composition and knowing the lens's limitations.
Maria's portrait here is proof that it's doable. I kept her in the center of the frame where distortion is minimal, used the advertising light for nice diffused side lighting, and shot from a reasonable distance. If I'd moved her to the edge of the frame or gotten right up in her face, it would've looked weird. But treated carefully, a 28mm can give you a portrait with some environmental context in the background, which can be a nice look.
Just know what you're getting into. This isn't a portrait lens. But it can make portraits if you're intentional about it.
As well as this blog post, I also have a video sharing some of these points and showing more of the old Sitton’s mill location should you want to go check that out at the link below.
Thanks and if you are into vintage glass, this is a keeper in my book — and for pennies too. Twenty bucks for a solid 28mm that actually performs? I'll take that deal every time. Sure it doesn't like the sun and you probably won't shoot portraits with it every day, but as a walkaround lens for street photography or just messing around? It's great.
So with that, get your camera out and go take a picture with it. Maybe even throw the dice on some weird vintage lens you've never heard of. You might just find a winner.
Questions People Ask About the Hanimex 28mm f/2.8
Is the Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 any good?
Yeah, it's actually pretty good for the price. Sharp in the center, solid build quality, and it handles well on modern mirrorless cameras with IBIS. The biggest issue is sun flare — this lens does NOT like having the sun anywhere near the front element. You'll get geometric artifacts and overall loss of contrast if you're shooting with the sun in or near the frame. But for $20-30, it's absolutely worth picking up if you see one. I mean, at that price, even if it's just okay, who cares? But when it turns out to be actually good, you feel like you found a hidden gem.
What mount is the Hanimex 28mm f/2.8?
M42 screw mount, which is great because you can adapt it to basically any mirrorless camera. I use it on my Leica SL2 with an M42-to-L adapter, but it works just as well on Sony E-mount, Fuji X-mount, Canon RF, whatever you've got. M42 is one of those universal old-school mounts that just adapts to everything. Plus the adapters are cheap and plentiful, so you're not spending a fortune to use these lenses on modern cameras.
Can you use vintage lenses on the Leica SL2?
Absolutely. The Leica SL2's IBIS makes vintage glass way more usable than it used to be. You can hand-hold at slower shutter speeds that would normally require a tripod, and the camera's focus peaking makes manual focusing pretty straightforward once you get used to it. Plus the L-mount has a short flange distance so you can adapt almost anything — M42, Nikon F, Canon FD, Leica M, you name it. I actually prefer shooting with adapted vintage lenses on the SL2 sometimes because it's just more fun than using modern autofocus glass.
How do you deal with sun flare on vintage lenses?
Use a lens hood or just shade the lens with your hand when the sun is hitting the front element. Vintage lens coatings from the 60s and 70s aren't anywhere near as good as modern multi-coatings, so direct sunlight will give you all kinds of flare, ghost images, and loss of contrast. If you're shooting into the sun or with bright light hitting the lens at an angle, expect problems. It's just how old glass behaves. Sometimes you can use it creatively for that vintage look, but most of the time it's just annoying. I literally had to shade the lens with my hand at Sitton's Mill to get clean shots.
Is 28mm good for street photography?
It's a little wider than the classic 35mm or 50mm focal lengths most people use for street, but yeah, it works. You get more context in the frame, which is good for environmental portraits or showing a whole scene instead of isolating subjects. The trade-off is that 28mm has more distortion at the edges, so you need to be careful about composition. Keep important stuff — especially people's faces — toward the center of the frame. I shot a portrait of Maria at the mall with this lens and it turned out great, but I made sure to keep her centered. If I'd put her at the edge of the frame, her face would've looked stretched and weird.
Where can I buy a Hanimex 28mm f/2.8?
I got mine at Ball Photo in Asheville, North Carolina for about $20. They have an absolutely overwhelming amount of vintage gear if you're ever in the area. Otherwise, check eBay, KEH Camera, or local camera shops that carry used gear. These lenses aren't rare or collectible, so they're usually pretty cheap when you find them. Don't overpay — if someone's asking more than $30-40 for one, keep looking. There are plenty of them out there.
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K&F Concept Lens Mount Adapter M42-L Manual Focus
Actual Lens Adapter in this Blog Post
One of my favorite camera straps
Sandisk 128GB Extreme Pro memory cards
Nikon 50mm f1.8 S Lens for Z mount
Have you shot with the Hanimex 28mm or other obscure vintage glass? Drop a comment below — I'd love to hear what hidden gems you've found digging through used lens bins.
Chattanooga Photowalk: Leica SL2 + Yashica 28mm Street Photography
Chattanooga's Rossville Avenue is one of those streets most people drive past without a second thought. But stop and look closer—you'll find pre-WWII architecture, a century-old cafe that's about to close forever, and urban decay that looks like a movie set. That's exactly what I did with my Leica SL2 and a vintage Yashica 28mm f/2.8 lens: parked for one hour of street photography and came away with something worth sharing.
Chattanooga's Rossville Avenue is one of those streets most people drive past without a second thought. But stop and look closer—you'll find pre-WWII architecture, a century-old cafe that's about to close forever, and urban decay that looks like a movie set. That's exactly what I did with my Leica SL2 and a vintage Yashica 28mm f/2.8 lens: parked for one hour of street photography and came away with something worth sharing.
Hamilton Parts Distributors: Pre-War Architecture in Chattanooga
Today we find me in Chattanooga yet again and this time I am setup on a side street off of Main street called Rossville Avenue and this road has some really neat old buildings on it, some of which I have photographed in the past but I like to get photos of them as I go along to show how they change with time. I get parked and pay for one hour of parking so I have to make it count. Putting a little pressure on myself to come away with SOMETHING of value in this time allotment.,,
Rossville Avenue in Chattanooga—one of those streets you drive past but never really see. Time to change that.
My first stop is the Hamilton Parts Distributors building that has been NOT a parts distributor for quite some time as of this point…2023. The building is really starting to show its age too with numerous windows bricked up on the sides as well as the front giving it a sort of dystopian imbalanced look. This could be a set right out of a movie or something. I took several photos from different angles today and some look better than others. I really like the front door and the corner that I get today for some reason… Here they are, what do you think?
I love how the building still has remnants of the signage that was painted on it some time in the past. Also look at the foundation material—today it's all either poured concrete or cement blocks and has been for many decades. So I'm going to speculate this is pre-war construction, meaning before World War II, based on these limestone foundation stones.
These stones look like they were repurposed from another construction site that existed before this building did. I've seen evidence of these cut stones going back to the mid-19th century in Chattanooga, so I know these are probably something left over either from a fire or were just cast off when another building was demolished. The people who built this building saw a chance to save a few dollars on this part of the construction.
Also notice that they didn't think these stones were very appealing—they hid them behind a mortar stucco finish as you can see in the front door photo. Practical, but not pretty.
What I really love about locations like this is that they tell stories about how Chattanooga was built. This isn't some sterile modern construction—this is history you can see and photograph. The bricked-up windows, the deteriorating facade, the repurposed foundation stones—it all adds up to a building that looks like it could be a set piece in a dystopian film. And it's just sitting here on Rossville Avenue where most people never even glance at it.
The corner angle showing all those bricked-up windows. Dystopian and unbalanced—looks like a movie set.
The front entrance of the old Hamilton Parts Distributors building. Notice the limestone foundation stones—likely pre-WWII construction repurposed from an earlier building.
Zarzours Cafe: 100 Years of Chattanooga History (Closing Soon)
My next stop was right next door at Zarzours Cafe.
Zarzours Cafe—over 100 years in business and closing in less than a month. I'll be eating there before they close. How could I not?
This cafe has been in business for over 100 years. Yeah, you read that right—a century, as you can see on their sign. And it's closing in less than a month from when I took these photos.
I'd never eaten there before this photowalk, which honestly is a little embarrassing considering how long they've been around. But I made a promise to myself right then: I'm going to sit at their cafe and enjoy the fine cuisine they've been serving for a century before they close their doors for good. How could I let that slide? A business that survives 100 years in Chattanooga—through the Great Depression, World War II, economic changes, everything—deserves to be experienced and remembered.
This is what urban photography is really about for me. Sure, you can go shoot pretty buildings and interesting light, and that's fine. But when you're documenting places like Zarzours that are about to disappear, you're preserving Chattanooga history. These photos matter in a way that just "pretty pictures" don't. In ten years, twenty years, someone's going to search for Zarzours Cafe and these images will be part of the record of what it looked like before it closed.
Back to the walk at hand. I took a couple of photos of the restaurant and parking area and headed on down the street.
Another angle of Zarzours. A century of Chattanooga history about to become just a memory.
Koch Foods and Lookout Mountain: Iconic Chattanooga Skyline
The next stop was at the Koch Foods Processing plant. This is one of two processing plants inside the city that I am aware of. These have been here for decades too so they are pretty much fixtures of the city at this point. One is on Broad street and the other is here on Rossville Ave. It being such an iconic location coupled with the skyline containing Lookout Mtn as well makes for a cool photo to me.
Koch Foods processing plant with Lookout Mountain in the background—an iconic Chattanooga skyline view that's been here for decades.
Main Street Chattanooga: Urban Photography in Action
After the chicken plant, I made my way over to Main street and did a little photography on Main as well. Main usually has something really colorful as well as interesting too, this is why I usually always make my way over and look around for a little while at a minimum…
Same spot, faster shutter speed to freeze the construction scene. Main Street always has something interesting going on.
Leica SL2 + Yashica 28mm: Why This Combo Works for Street Photography
These two photos just go to show what all can be found on Main street even when it is not having some sort of special event. All it takes is a little creativity and time of your part to come away with some interesting photos. Now you might be thinking these are not interesting photos, and you will be right as the photo interest rate will vary from person to person, but I found that these to be quite interesting so I am sharing them with you…lol. The difference between the two photo primarily is the shutter speed as one is really slow to blur the truck and the other is faster so it will capture the whole construction scene with out any motion blur on my part.
Main Street with a slow shutter to blur the truck. The Leica SL2's IBIS makes this kind of handheld shot possible.
Leica SL2 + Yashica 28mm: Why This Combo Works for Street Photography
The Yashica 28mm f/2.8 is one of those vintage lenses that just works. It's not fancy, it's not expensive, and it doesn't have modern coatings or any electronic connections. But for street and urban photography like this Chattanooga photowalk, it's exactly what I need.
The 28mm focal length gives you enough width to capture environmental context—like the whole Hamilton Parts building facade or the Koch Foods plant with Lookout Mountain in the background—without getting into ultra-wide territory where everything starts looking distorted. It's the kind of focal length where you can work close to your subject or step back and get the whole scene, and either way, the composition feels natural.
Paired with the Leica SL2, this combination is almost perfect for what I'm doing. The SL2's IBIS (in-body image stabilization) means I can hand-hold at slower shutter speeds than I could with any other camera. That Main Street shot where I blurred the truck? That's 1/15 second or slower, handheld, with a manual focus lens. Without IBIS, that would be a blurry mess. With the SL2 compensating for camera shake, it's clean and usable.
The focus peaking on the SL2 makes manual focusing with the Yashica fast and accurate. I set focus peaking to show me exactly where sharp focus is, and between that and the bright EVF, I can nail focus even in challenging light. It's honestly more enjoyable to shoot with than autofocus sometimes—you're more engaged with the process, more intentional about what you're focusing on.
And here's the best part: the Yashica 28mm cost me a fraction of what a native L-mount lens would cost. I get great image quality, I enjoy the process, and I'm not worried about damaging an expensive modern lens while walking around industrial areas of Chattanooga photographing old buildings. It's the perfect urban photography setup.
IBIS and Adapted Lenses: Technical Advantages of the Leica SL2
One thing I want to emphasize about shooting adapted vintage lenses on the Leica SL2 is how much the IBIS changes what's possible. In-body image stabilization isn't just a convenience feature—it fundamentally changes how you can use manual focus lenses in real-world shooting.
With older cameras, the rule of thumb was that your minimum handheld shutter speed should be roughly 1/focal length. For a 28mm lens, that means 1/30 second or faster. Slower than that and you'd get camera shake blur unless you had very steady hands or were bracing against something.
The SL2's IBIS throws that old rule out the window. I regularly shoot at 1/15 second, 1/8 second, sometimes even slower if I'm careful. The sensor is compensating for my hand movement in real-time, which means I can use lower ISOs for better image quality, or shoot in lower light conditions without needing a tripod.
For street and urban photography where you're often in shaded areas or shooting late in the day, this is huge. The Yashica 28mm has a maximum aperture of f/2.8, which is good but not super fast. In dimmer light, without IBIS, I'd be pushing ISO up to 1600 or 3200 to maintain usable shutter speeds. With IBIS, I can stay at ISO 400 or 800 and let the shutter speed drop, knowing the stabilization will keep things sharp.
It's one of those features that doesn't seem like a big deal until you actually use it in the field, and then you wonder how you ever shot without it. Vintage glass on a modern mirrorless body with IBIS is genuinely the best of both worlds.
Some are asking…
Best Time to Shoot Rossville Avenue: Morning light is good for the Hamilton Parts building facade. Late afternoon gives you nice side light on Zarzours and the other buildings along the street. Main Street is active all day, but I prefer shooting there in the afternoon or early evening when the light gets more interesting.
Parking and Logistics: Like I mentioned, metered parking is available right on Rossville Avenue. One hour was enough time for me to hit Hamilton Parts, Zarzours, Koch Foods, and make my way to Main Street. If you want to spend more time, pay for two hours to give yourself breathing room.
Safety: This isn't the touristy part of Chattanooga (it is more for the local crowd in this area) so just be aware of your surroundings. It borders an industrial area, not dangerous, but use common sense. Don't leave gear visible in your car, keep your camera bag close, and stay alert. I've never had any issues, but it's always smart to be aware when you're photographing in less-traveled parts of town.
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Frequently Asked Questions About Chattanooga Photography
Where is the best street photography in Chattanooga?
Main Street and Rossville Avenue are excellent for urban and street photography. Main Street is more polished with events, murals, and restaurants—it's the tourist-friendly side of downtown. Rossville Avenue offers grittier architecture and history. The area around the old Hamilton Parts Distributors building has pre-WWII structures that make for compelling photography if you're into urban decay and architectural history.
For skyline shots, look for locations where you can frame Lookout Mountain in the background—it's iconic Chattanooga and makes for instantly recognizable compositions. The Koch Foods plant area on Rossville gives you that view. Also worth checking: the riverfront, the Walnut Street Bridge, and the side streets off Main where you'll find older buildings and interesting character that don't make it into the tourist brochures.
Is Zarzours Cafe still open in Chattanooga?
As of when I took these photos in late 2023, Zarzours Cafe was preparing to close after over 100 years in business. This century-old Chattanooga institution on Rossville Avenue was a landmark, and I made it a point to photograph it—and eat there—before it closed forever. If you're reading this after 2023, it's likely already closed, which makes these photos even more valuable as historical documentation of Chattanooga's changing landscape.
It's one of those things that makes urban photography meaningful to me. You're not just capturing pretty pictures—you're documenting history before it disappears. Businesses that survive 100 years deserve to be remembered, and photography is how we do that.
Can you use vintage lenses for street photography?
Absolutely. I shot this entire Chattanooga photowalk with a Yashica 28mm f/2.8—a vintage adapted lens on my Leica SL2. The 28mm focal length is great for street photography because it captures environmental context without being too wide or distorted. You get the subject plus the surrounding architecture and scene, which tells a more complete story.
The Leica SL2's IBIS and focus peaking make manual focusing with vintage glass practical and enjoyable even in fast-moving street situations. Plus, vintage lenses have character and cost a fraction of modern glass. For street photography where you're often shooting at f/5.6 to f/8 anyway, vintage lenses perform beautifully. The Yashica 28mm is sharp, handles well, and cost me way less than any modern L-mount 28mm would.
What camera settings work best for urban photography?
For urban photography like this Chattanooga photowalk, I typically shoot in aperture priority mode at f/5.6 to f/8. This gives you good depth of field to keep both foreground and background reasonably sharp while keeping shutter speeds manageable in changing light conditions.
The Leica SL2's IBIS lets me hand-hold at slower speeds than I could with other cameras—like that Main Street shot with the motion-blurred truck. I set a minimum ISO (usually 100-400 depending on available light) and let the camera adjust shutter speed based on the scene. For adapted manual lenses like the Yashica 28mm, I use focus peaking to nail focus quickly and confidently.
If you're shooting architecture specifically, sometimes I'll stop down to f/11 or f/16 for maximum sharpness corner-to-corner, but for general street photography, f/5.6 to f/8 is the sweet spot.
Where can I park for photography on Rossville Avenue in Chattanooga?
There's metered street parking along Rossville Avenue. I paid for one hour of parking which gave me enough time to walk and photograph the Hamilton Parts building, Zarzours Cafe, Koch Foods, and make my way over to Main Street. The parking is affordable and convenient, and the walk between all these locations is pretty short—maybe a quarter mile total if you're hitting everything.
Just be aware of your surroundings. This area is more industrial and local than touristy, so stay alert when you're setting up shots and wandering around. It's not dangerous, but it's also not the Walnut Street Bridge where there are tourists everywhere. Just use common sense like you would in any urban environment.
How do you photograph closing businesses before they're gone?
When I heard Zarzours Cafe was closing after 100 years, I made it a priority to photograph it while I still could. These historical documentation shots become more valuable over time as the city changes. My advice: shoot multiple angles, capture signage clearly, and include contextual details like the parking lot, neighboring buildings, and street views that show where it sits in the neighborhood.
Take both "beauty shots" and straightforward documentary photos. You're not just making art—you're preserving Chattanooga history. The signage, the facade, the surrounding context—all of it matters for the historical record.
And if you can, patronize the business before it closes. I planned to eat at Zarzours before they shut down for good. If something is worth photographing because it's historically significant, it's worth supporting while you still can.
That's one hour of parking on Rossville Avenue in Chattanooga—from pre-WWII architecture at Hamilton Parts Distributors to a century-old cafe about to close forever, to the iconic skyline view at Koch Foods with Lookout Mountain in the background. Not bad for a quick urban photowalk with a Leica SL2 and a vintage 28mm lens.
Chattanooga has so much history hiding in plain sight. You just have to park, get out, and look. Next time you're driving through, skip Main Street for a minute and explore Rossville Avenue. You'll find stories in every building.
Have you photographed Chattanooga or documented historic locations before they're gone? Drop a comment—I'd love to hear about your urban photography spots.
Want more Chattanooga photography and Leica SL2 content? Check out my other photowalks and vintage lens reviews on the blog.
Fall color photos FINALLY!!!
Well, it sure took long enough, but I finally found a place local to me that had some beautiful fall color photo opportunities.
This is not something I normally have when it is as dry as it has been recently. Let me explain…
I am no scientist but I have stayed in a Holiday Inn before, so here goes. From what I have seen, there are three different scenarios that usually unfold around here in the fall.
The first event is like this, we get plenty of rain in the spring, it dries out a little in the mid summer months and then it starts to rain in late September or early October. This is actually the best possible scenario from what I can tell…
The second scenario is the same as the first one except the rain turns into a thunderstorm storm with heavy rain and usually high winds during peak color season, knocking all the leaves off of the trees.
Then there is option three, this one is where there is rain in the spring but then it is dry for the entirety of summer and fall. This is the type of season we are in now. There has not been enough rain to matter in two months…maybe more. It is so little water that the creek next to my house has no surface water in it as of this writing.
Of the three events, the first one is the preferred for fall color photos as there is sufficient water for the trees to transition normally to their dormant winter state and you get this incredible color display in the fall. This year though, we have event three where everything is a huge tinderbox and the leaves are simply drying out and turning brown then falling off of the trees without passing through their color phase at all…except…in the few places where there is still ground water to water the trees.
Enter North Chickamauga Creek WMA near Soddy Daisy Tennessee. This is a small WMA (Wildlife Management Area) situated in a gorge next to Mowbray mountain and is a popular spot for the locals to cool off in the summertime in the river. Well, the river is just a brook at this point and is barely moving at all, BUT it is there! If you watch my YouTube video on it you will see what I mean. Even so, there is still enough water to feed the trees so they had a fall color change.
Since I found some colors this year, I now had to figure out what I wanted to use to capture all this color with. I finally settled on my camera being the Leica SL2 as it has a high resolution sensor and several other features that lend itself to being a wonderful landscape photography camera. You see the Leica SL2 is a mirrorless camera so it can be adapted to various vintage lenses really easily and we all know how I love using vintage lenses! So today’s lens of choice for the Leica is the Nikkor 28mm f2.8 AiS. This is one of Nikon’s crowning achievements in lens design as it was as close to optical perfection as they had ever gotten to that point. So naturally I used this lens.
The magic of the Leica SL2 as well is that it has IBIS on the sensor. This basically turns all my vintage lenses into stabilized lenses. I know there are a ton of other cameras that also have these same features but I just like the Leica SL2 for some reason.
Now that the camera setup is settled, next is finding the photo I want. I started out looking for macro level images, vistas and scenes, then I moved in closer to get more detailed image ideas. The first one is shown above of the red maple tree in a sea of yellow. Then I moved to the river bed and found some wonderful colors out in the open.
This was literally what I was greeted with when I looked upstream from where I entered the river bottom. Not much water, but I got such a color splash from the trees that I didn’t even care. I would have liked for it to not be overcast, but you take what you can get and work with it. I really love this image too, so much texture and color in one image that is is almost overwhelming. I was really starting to embrace the look that the 28mm lens was giving me and then I decided to move upstream to that large boulder you see in the above photo and get a different perspective from that spot.
The little smidgen of sky showing the over cast clouds almost makes it otherworldly or something like that. I was blown away with this image when I got it into Lightroom and was able to see it better. It almost doesn’t look real back up in the valley next to the sky. The clouds were epic! This is also shot hand held with the 28mm lens. What is nice is that it allowed me to be very agile and not have the burden of the back pack and a tripod with me at all. There is something to be said for simplicity…
So in summary, if you want to find fall colors even when it has been really dry, find the water. Where ever there is water, there will be fall colors. At least that is what I have seen, your mileage may vary.
Reviewing the 58mm f2 Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar M42 mount lens
When Aaron offered to loan me his 58mm, I had no idea that it was a Zeiss and over 60 years old.
Well, it didn’t take long to figure that out and to round up a simple M42 to Leica L mount adapter so I could get this lens on my Leica SL2.
The next thing I did was look the lens over really closely. The usual controls are there of aperture and focus but it has a third ring as well. This ring is spring loaded and is some sort of adjustable stop for the minimum aperture. This is how it works, you pull the ring towards the camera, compressing the spring. While the spring is compressed, you rotate the ring and align a mark on it with the aperture you want it to stop at. Once here, release the spring and it will seat in this position stopping the aperture ring from stopping down past this point. This was for cameras back in the day as you had to meter the scene manually then set the aperture for the meter value. To compose though, you needed all the light you could get so you set the ring for the aperture you plan to shoot the photo at then you would open the aperture all the way to see good and get good focus. Once this was done, you could simply spin the aperture ring to the stop and it was set to the metered value and you didnt even have to come off the camera to do it. Pretty slick if you ask me.
Another item of note is that the aperture ring is ”clickless” or in other words, it simply turns smoothly through the range without any detents to locate it at specific settings.
The next thing I noticed is that the machine work is impeccable…which I have grown to expect no less from the German people. The focus ring is smooth as silk even with its advanced years. Quite the opposite of some of my other lenses to be quite honest.
Something else I noticed is that the lens has incredible close focus with about 330 degrees of focus throw. Of that 330 degrees it devotes probably 250 degrees to close focus. Crazy precise focus for a lens this old. The first 1/4 turn though is the normal use range so it will go from infinity to 2.5 meters in that 1/4 turn and then the rest of the throw is for close range work. Pretty neat how the normal range stuff is in such a short throw so you can get focus fast with it. Just a little practice and you a can get street photos of moving subjects and fairly large apertures in focus. You just learn how to use it with some time.
It is not a bad lens in any way either, just look at the photo of Teresa I got at the local state park one day with it. Razor sharp and great rendition too. This is what makes vintage lenses so cool, they still got it…
It also works great for a general purpose walk around lens too. I liked using it for my photowalks where I would jus grab a photo here and there of things that caught my eye and it would render these scenes really well.
So if you are into the vintage glass “look” then I might suggest grabbing one of these old girls if you can find one and adapting it to your mirrorless camera to see what you can get with it. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.