Nikon Zf Review: Why I Switched from Leica CL for Travel Photography

After years of using the Leica CL for travel photography, I finally switched to the Nikon Zf—and I should have done it sooner. The breaking point? Getting caught in English rain on the Pilgrims Way with my non-weather-sealed Leica CL. In this Nikon Zf review, I'll explain why I chose this retro-styled mirrorless camera over the Leica CL for hiking trips and travel photography, covering weather sealing, IBIS, battery life, and real-world performance.

Why I Needed a Weather Sealed Travel Camera

When I got into the Leica cameras I use, I had built a kit around street photography, urban photography, urbex photography, and travel photography. The next thing I started doing was adapting vintage lenses to them. Then I started using TTArtisan glass on the Leica CL and loved it! My Leica SL2 now carries the 50mm APO Summicron L pretty much all the time as well. I love the SL2, but for a backpacking trip, it is probably not the best choice.

That experience changed everything for me. I realized I was babying my camera instead of using it. Every time clouds rolled in, I'd pack it away. Every time I saw a stunning scene but it was drizzling, I'd pass on the shot. That's not why I bought a camera—I bought it to use it, to capture moments, to not miss opportunities because I'm worried about weather. That's when I knew I needed weather sealing as a non-negotiable feature in my next travel camera.

The Leica CL served me well for years, but lack of weather sealing was a deal-breaker for hiking trips in unpredictable weather.

Why the Leica CL Didn't Work for Hiking Trips

The Leica CL, while perfect in size for travel, is not weather sealed… I came to this realization while hiking the Pilgrims Way in England a while back. (I did a small series of videos on this trip if you are interested) and this is when I came to realize that while the Leica CL is really small and lightweight, it is also not my favorite for hiking trip travel. Rain is a real threat in England and I was fortunate that my camera did not get caught in a cloud burst.

So knowing all of this, I started down the path of finding a new travel camera to shoot with…

My Requirements for the Perfect Travel Photography Camera

So knowing all of this, I started down the path of finding a new travel camera to shoot with. I looked at several factors to guide my choice:

1. The first was it had to be weather sealed or it was a no go for me.

2. The next is it had to have IBIS as I love shooting with vintage glass and this allows me to shoot at much slower shutter speeds while handheld.

3. I also wanted a full frame, 24MP sensor if possible as these (in 2024) have much better low light performance due to the larger photo sites on the sensor.

4. It also needed good battery life as these Leica mirrorless cameras just don't have great battery life for me.

These weren't just nice-to-have features. These were requirements based on real frustrations I'd experienced in the field. Weather sealing because of England. IBIS because I shoot vintage glass and hate carrying a tripod on hikes. Full-frame 24MP for those low-light church interiors and evening shots. Battery life because running out of power halfway through a hiking day is unacceptable.

Nikon Zf Features That Changed My Travel Photography

After searching for a year or so with no luck, Nikon drops a bomb on me with the launch of the Nikon Zf retro styled camera. You could have just as easily called it the "Nikon Special Custom Built Camera For Dave" and the name would have been accurate. HaHa!

I immediately fell in love with it…before I even laid eyes on one in person. When I see a new camera that I am interested in, I will search all about it that I can and see if it will fit my needs and do that at a price point that I am comfortable with.

The Nikon Zf mirrorless camera is a camera that checks all those boxes and more. You see I am in love with the retro-style camera design aesthetic like the Fujifilm XT-3 and now the Nikon Zf (as well as to a lesser degree the Nikon Zfc too). I owned the Fujifilm XT-3 for several years and it had two main shortcomings that made me want to move away from it over the years.

The crop sensor had pretty bad low light performance (it was 26 mega pixels so it was doing a lot of work to get it all in there) and the lack of IBIS in a mirrorless camera. Cameras at this time were coming standard with IBIS (In Body Image Stabilization) and I felt this was a huge misstep for Fujifilm on this camera. I, none the less, used it for several years anyway and to great effect too, but the lack of these two features was a nagging thought at the back of my mind the whole time.

Then Nikon came out with the Zfc and I initially was in love with it, but upon closer inspection, it was simply an XT-3 in a Nikon shell. Yeah, it had a few things that were newer and (debatably) better, but it still lacked certain things I wanted. I had resigned myself at this point to wait for a replacement to the Nikon Df or maybe something by Leica that was closer to what I was wanting. Well as fate would have it, Nikon saw the demand for the retro camera design and came out with the Zf—a full frame, IBIS, 24 megapixel, mirrorless camera loaded with all the magic that they could cram into the beautiful Nikon retro shell.

Nikon Zf vs Leica CL: Key Differences for Travel Photography

Let me break down the key differences between these two cameras for anyone facing the same decision I did:

Weather Sealing: The Nikon Zf is fully weather sealed; the Leica CL is not. This was the deal-breaker for me. If you're hiking in unpredictable weather or traveling to places with rain, dust, or humidity, the Nikon Zf gives you peace of mind. The Leica CL requires constant babying in anything but perfect conditions.

IBIS: The Nikon Zf has 5-axis in-body image stabilization; the Leica CL does not. This makes a massive difference when shooting with vintage manual focus lenses or in low light. I can handhold shots at 1/15th second with the Nikon Zf that would be impossible with the Leica CL. For travel photography where you can't always use a tripod, IBIS is a game-changer.

Sensor Size: The Nikon Zf has a full-frame 24MP sensor; the Leica CL has an APS-C crop sensor. The full-frame sensor gives you better low-light performance (larger photosites), shallower depth of field control, and generally more flexibility. The crop sensor on the Leica CL is excellent, but the full-frame advantage is real when you're shooting in challenging light.

Battery Life: The Nikon Zf's battery lasts significantly longer than the Leica CL. With the Leica CL, I'd carry 3-4 batteries and still worry about running out. With the Nikon Zf, two batteries get me through a full day of shooting with power to spare.

Size and Weight: This is where the Leica CL wins. It's noticeably smaller and lighter, which matters on long hikes. The Nikon Zf is not a huge camera, but it's definitely more substantial. For me, the practical advantages of the Nikon Zf outweigh the size disadvantage, but this is a personal choice.

Price: The Leica CL (when it was still in production) was more expensive than the Nikon Zf. Now that it's discontinued, you'd be buying used. The Nikon Zf offers better value for the features you get.

The Nikon Zf's weather-sealed body and IBIS make it ideal for unpredictable travel conditions and hiking with vintage lenses.

Real World Nikon Zf Performance: Travel and Hiking

So to be honest, I was still skeptical that this would be the next camera for me. I have gotten really comfortable using my Leica cameras and the thought of learning a new camera was really not that appealing to me. But the more reviews I watched on YouTube and the more I just looked at the camera in general, the more I liked it.

Since getting the Nikon Zf, I've put it through its paces on several trips, and it's delivered every time. The weather sealing proved itself on a rainy morning shoot where I would have packed the Leica CL away. The IBIS let me shoot handheld in a dimly lit museum with a vintage 50mm f/1.4 lens at 1/15th second and still get sharp images. The battery lasted an entire day of hiking without needing the spare.

The retro physical dials are more than just aesthetic—they're genuinely useful in the field. Being able to glance down and see my shutter speed and ISO without turning on the screen saves battery and makes adjustments faster. On a hike, every second counts when you're trying to catch changing light or a fleeting moment.

The full-frame sensor's low-light performance is noticeably better than the Leica CL's crop sensor. I can comfortably shoot at ISO 3200 or even 6400 when needed, and the files are clean. With the Leica CL, I tried to stay under ISO 1600 whenever possible. That flexibility matters when you're traveling and can't always control the light.

So for now, this is my new travel/street machine. It has wonderful rendition and is a joy to shoot with. I look forward to taking it on outings now and I have the 50mm f1.8 S lens if I want auto focus and to be able to access all the special features that have to do with the auto focus system. So going forward, there will be more about this machine as well as the two Leica camras I use as well. You see, those two machines are also wonderful cameras and I still enjoy using them too, I use them for certain things as I have found. But I still love getting them out and using them.

Nikon Zf vs Leica CL: Which Should You Choose?

Choose the Nikon Zf if:

• You need weather sealing for hiking, travel, or unpredictable conditions

• You shoot with vintage manual focus lenses and want IBIS

• You value battery life and don't want to carry multiple batteries

• You want better low-light performance (full-frame advantage)

• You're comfortable with a slightly larger/heavier camera for the features

Choose the Leica CL if:

• Size and weight are your absolute top priorities

• You primarily shoot in good weather or controlled conditions

• You're already invested in the Leica L-mount ecosystem

• You prefer the Leica color science and rendering

• You can find one used at a good price (it's discontinued)

For me, the practical advantages of the Nikon Zf outweigh the size advantage of the Leica CL. But I still appreciate what the Leica CL offers for lightweight urban photography.

Recommended Gear for Travel Photography

Support this website by using these affiliate links to shop on Amazon:

Leica M11 Digital Rangefinder Camera because the Leica CL is out of production now.

Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 105mm f/1.4E ED Lens

Nikon FTZ II Mount Adapter

Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.4 II

Urth M adapter L

Sandisk 128GB Extreme Pro memory cards

Nikon Zf Mirrorless Camera

Nikon 50mm f1.8 S Lens for Z mount

My favorite Pocket Notebook

My favorite Mechanical Pencil

Frequently Asked Questions About the Nikon Zf for Travel Photography

Is the Nikon Zf good for travel photography?

Yes, the Nikon Zf is excellent for travel photography. After switching from the Leica CL, I've found the Nikon Zf addresses all the key requirements for serious travel work: weather sealing protects it in rain and dust, IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization) allows handheld shooting with vintage lenses and in low light, the full-frame 24MP sensor delivers outstanding image quality even at high ISOs, and the battery life is significantly better than my Leica mirrorless cameras. The retro design with physical dials makes it quick to adjust settings on the fly, which is crucial when you're hiking and need to shoot fast.

How does the Nikon Zf compare to the Leica CL for travel?

The Nikon Zf and Leica CL serve different needs. The Leica CL is smaller and lighter (perfect for ultralight backpacking), but lacks weather sealing and IBIS, which are deal-breakers for hiking trips where rain is a possibility. The Nikon Zf is heavier but offers weather sealing, IBIS, a full-frame sensor with better low-light performance, and much longer battery life. I switched from Leica CL to Nikon Zf specifically because I got caught in English rain on the Pilgrims Way and realized I needed weather protection. If you're doing casual city travel, the Leica CL's compact size is nice. For serious hiking and unpredictable weather, the Nikon Zf is the better choice.

Is the Nikon Zf weather sealed?

Yes, the Nikon Zf is weather sealed. This was one of my primary requirements when searching for a travel camera to replace the Leica CL. The weather sealing on the Nikon Zf protects against rain, dust, and moisture - essential for hiking trips and travel photography where you can't always control the conditions. After hiking the Pilgrims Way in England with my non-weather-sealed Leica CL and worrying about rain the entire time, having weather sealing gives me peace of mind to shoot in any conditions.

Does the Nikon Zf have IBIS?

Yes, the Nikon Zf has 5-axis In-Body Image Stabilization (IBIS). This was another critical requirement for me. IBIS allows me to shoot with vintage manual focus lenses at slower shutter speeds while still getting sharp handheld images. It's also invaluable for travel photography when you're shooting in low-light situations like churches, museums, or evening street scenes where you can't use a tripod. The Leica CL lacks IBIS, which was one of the main reasons I switched to the Nikon Zf.

What is the battery life like on the Nikon Zf?

The Nikon Zf has significantly better battery life than my Leica mirrorless cameras. While Leica mirrorless cameras have notoriously short battery life (I always carried 3-4 batteries), the Nikon Zf's EN-EL15c battery provides enough power for a full day of travel photography on a single charge. This is a huge advantage for hiking trips where you might not have access to power for recharging. I typically carry two batteries for the Nikon Zf and rarely need the second one, whereas with the Leica CL I'd go through multiple batteries in a day.

Can you use vintage lenses on the Nikon Zf?

Absolutely! The Nikon Zf is fantastic for vintage lenses, which is one reason I love it. With the FTZ II adapter, you can use Nikon F-mount lenses, and with various adapters you can mount Leica M, M42, Canon FD, and many other vintage lenses. The combination of focus peaking, IBIS, and the high-resolution EVF makes manual focusing a joy. I regularly shoot with vintage glass on my Nikon Zf when traveling, and the IBIS compensates for the lack of optical stabilization in older lenses. This was impossible with the Leica CL which lacks IBIS.

Is the Nikon Zf worth it over the Leica CL?

It depends on your priorities. The Nikon Zf is worth it if you need weather sealing, IBIS, better low-light performance (full-frame vs crop sensor), and longer battery life. These were all critical requirements for my hiking and travel photography. The Leica CL is worth considering if you prioritize extreme portability, the Leica color science, and compact size above all else. For me, the practical advantages of the Nikon Zf (weather sealing especially) outweighed the Leica CL's size advantage. After nearly losing my Leica CL to rain in England, the choice became clear.

What focal lengths work best for travel photography on the Nikon Zf?

For travel photography on the Nikon Zf, I primarily use the Nikon 50mm f/1.8 S lens because it's lightweight, sharp, and versatile. The full-frame sensor means you get the classic 50mm field of view, which works for everything from street scenes to portraits. I also adapt vintage lenses, particularly 35mm focal lengths, when I want a wider perspective for landscapes or architecture. The beauty of the Nikon Zf's IBIS is that I can handhold even at slower shutter speeds, so I'm not limited by the lack of stabilization in vintage glass. For hiking trips, I keep my kit minimal - usually just the 50mm f/1.8 S and maybe one adapted vintage lens.

So for now, this is my new travel and street machine. It has wonderful rendition and is a joy to shoot with. I look forward to taking it on outings now and I have the 50mm f1.8 S lens if I want auto focus and to be able to access all the special features that have to do with the auto focus system.

Going forward, there will be more about this machine as well as the two Leica cameras I use. You see, those two machines are also wonderful cameras and I still enjoy using them too—I use them for certain things as I have found. The Leica CL still comes with me on city trips where weight matters. The Leica SL2 is my studio and portrait camera. But for travel photography where weather and versatility matter? The Nikon Zf is now my go-to.

Are you considering the Nikon Zf for travel photography? Or have you made a similar switch from one camera system to another? I'd love to hear about your experiences in the comments below!

Want more honest camera reviews and travel photography tips? Subscribe to my photography blog for weekly posts about real-world gear testing, not just spec sheets and studio tests.

Support this website by using these affiliate links to shop on Amazon:

Leica M11 Digital Rangefinder Camera

Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 105mm f/1.4E ED Lens

Nikon FTZ II Mount Adapter

Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.4 II

Urth M adapter L

Sandisk 128GB Extreme Pro memory cards

Nikon Zf Mirrorless Camera

Nikon 50mm f1.8 S Lens for Z mount

My favorite Pocket Notebook

My favorite Mechanical Pencil

Solo Street Photography with Leica CL: Finding Joy Shooting Alone (Not Following the Rules)

After years of feeling pressure to do street photography "the right way," I finally figured something out: solo street photography photowalks with my Leica CL and a 50mm lens bring me more joy than following anyone else's rules. This is the story of how I stopped trying to shoot like Peter McKinnon, quit worrying about YouTube success, and rediscovered why I fell in love with photography in the first place—just grabbing my camera and hitting the streets alone.

My go-to setup: Leica CL with Voigtlander 35mm Nokton—this gives me a 50mm perspective on the crop sensor.

Why I Love Solo Street Photography (And You Might Too)

There's something incredibly freeing about solo photowalks that I didn't appreciate until I tried them consistently. When you're alone, there's no one to impress, no one waiting on you, and no one questioning why you're standing in the same spot for ten minutes watching the light change. You can be completely present with your camera and your surroundings without any social pressure.

I'll admit, at first the idea of walking around with a camera alone felt a bit weird. But then I realized—nobody cares. People are absorbed in their own lives, and you're just another person walking down the street. The freedom this brings is immense. If I see something interesting, I can stop and shoot it from ten different angles without feeling like I'm holding anyone up. If nothing inspires me, I can just enjoy the walk. There's zero pressure to "perform" or justify your creative choices to anyone.

My Leica CL Street Photography Setup: 50mm Perspective on Crop Sensor

It is just plain fun to grab a camera, a spare battery and hit the streets to see what I can find to photograph. My weapon of choice is the Leica CL mirrorless camera with one of several lenses. Usually though, my Leica CL is wearing a Voigtlander 35mm Nokton or a TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4, you never know which.

I really like the 50mm perspective of these lenses on a crop sensor camera like my Leica CL. The 1.5x crop factor means that 35mm lens gives me a 52.5mm field of view—basically a classic 50mm perspective. This is perfect for my shooting style because it gives me comfortable working distance from my subjects while still creating nice compression and subject isolation. If I use a full frame machine then I will usually opt for something in the 50 to 58mm range as well.

The Leica CL itself is the perfect camera for solo photowalks. It's small enough to not be intimidating, quiet enough to be discreet, and produces image quality that rivals cameras three times its size. The electronic viewfinder is bright and clear, the controls are simple and intuitive, and the whole package fits easily in my hand or jacket pocket. I can carry it all day without fatigue, and more importantly, I can carry it without thinking about it—which means I'm thinking about photography instead of gear.

I will take my 28mm lenses for the occasional stroll, but my staples are the 50mm lenses. Shoot, I even have the Leica APO Summicron SL 50mm for my Leica SL2 mirrorless camera as well because I like them so much. That is an insane package to be just strolling around town with slung around your neck…as well as heavy. Haha.

Breaking the Street Photography Rules: Why 50mm Works Better for Me Than 28mm

This literally took me years if not decades to truly figure it out. That is a hard pill to swallow at times too. Looking back, things could have gone a very different way had I followed my real passion instead of thinking I could be like Peter McKinnon… Live and learn I guess.

Before Pete came along and made me think I could be this ultra successful YouTube personality, I did things that other people said were what you should do. Like do street photography with wide glass and get close to people and stuff like that. That works for some people, but not me, I seem to have a real problem getting close to other people. Invading their personal space is such a red flag for me that I will just let the photo go before I attempt something like that.

Here's what nobody tells you about the "get close with a wide lens" approach: it's not just about technical skill, it's about personality. Some photographers are naturally extroverted, comfortable in stranger's personal space, and can pull off that close-up street style. I'm not one of those people. And you know what? That's completely okay. Using a 50mm or even longer lets me capture authentic moments from a respectful distance where neither I nor my subject feels uncomfortable. The photos are different than 28mm shots, but they're not worse—they're just mine.

This made for some truly terrible photos just to be honest about it. Mostly, it made me not want to go out and shoot though… so my very first Nikon DSLR would sit in the closet for months at a time with me not so much as looking at it. Who wants to go to a job and be stressed about that all day THEN make your hobby about "getting out of your comfort zone" and being stressed about that too?!? I almost gave up photography at one point because of this to be honest.

A typical scene from my solo photowalks—natural moments, comfortable distance

I have spent so long making YouTube content that I had actually forgotten how much fun it was to just go shoot. I will now get my camera and a battery or two and just hit the bricks. What I had to learn to do was to make a video about one every so often to share what I am doing with the viewers. I took a “sabbatical” the last two years in the first part of the year so I could do this. It helped dramatically too with my well being and my creativity.

Simple gear for photowalks: one camera, one lens, spare batteries. That's all I need.

From YouTube Pressure to Photography Joy: My Personal Journey

I finally found some joy when my daughter began competing in rock climbing. She joined a team and they would go all over for these events and I got my camera out and started photographing these gatherings and realized that there was more to this hobby than just what others said is good photography. I found a lot of joy in capturing interesting angles of the climbers and going to the trouble of sharing the photos with the team when done. It was really rewarding to be honest.

Then I broke my ankle and at about the same time, Sierra "aged out" of the team and stopped attending the events as life got in the way. Well, I needed a new avenue to focus on and found it in my YouTube channel. I learned over the years that a good YouTube content creator is not a good photographer—they are two very different things and I wandered down that rabbit hole for a while before realizing that it wasn't going to work for me.

The YouTube algorithm rewards consistency, spectacle, and engagement over artistry. It wants you to post weekly, chase trends, and create content that keeps people watching. That's fine if you want to be a content creator, but it's exhausting if you just want to be a photographer. I found myself thinking more about thumbnails and titles than I did about light and composition. I was shooting for the camera review, not for the creative satisfaction. That's when I knew something had to change.

The Joy of Street Photography Photowalks Without Pressure

This is where I am at now… just a guy with a camera out taking some pictures. No YouTube schedule to maintain, no algorithm to please, no gear to review, no style to emulate. Just me, my Leica CL, and whatever catches my eye. Some days that's dramatic light on a building. Other days it's a person waiting for the bus. Sometimes it's nothing at all, and that's fine too.

I have spent so long making YouTube content that I had actually forgotten how much fun it was to just go shoot. I will now get my camera and a battery or two and just hit the bricks. What I had to learn to do was to make a video about one every so often to share what I am doing with the viewers. I took a "sabbatical" the last two years in the first part of the year so I could do this. It helped dramatically too with my wellbeing and my creativity.

The biggest lesson? Photography should add to your life, not drain it. If your hobby is causing you stress instead of joy, you're doing it wrong—not because you're a bad photographer, but because you're following someone else's path instead of your own. Give yourself permission to shoot what you love, how you love, with whatever equipment makes you happy. That's where the good work lives.

Solo Street Photography Tips: Finding Your Own Style

Ultimately I found that I loved to go on photowalks and simply take pictures around me. Here's what I've learned about making solo photowalks work:

Keep your gear simple. I bring one camera, one lens, and two batteries. That's it. No bag, no accessories, nothing to fidget with or second-guess. This simplicity forces you to work within constraints, which actually makes you more creative, not less.

Shoot for yourself first. I used to think about how a photo would perform on Instagram or YouTube before I even took it. Now I shoot what interests me in the moment. Some of my favorite images would probably get three likes on social media, and I don't care. They're mine.

Walk the same routes sometimes. There's this idea that you need exotic locations for good street photography. I've learned more shooting the same three-mile radius around my house than I did traveling to "photogenic" cities. Familiarity breeds understanding. When you know a place well, you start to see the light differently, notice the rhythm of the day, and find moments you'd miss as a tourist rushing through.

Don't force it. Some walks I come home with fifty keepers. Other times I get nothing. Both are valuable. The walks where I don't press the shutter much are still feeding my creative eye, teaching me to see, and giving me time to think. Photography is as much about observation as it is about capture.

Frequently Asked Questions About Solo Street Photography

Is it okay to do street photography alone?

Absolutely! Solo street photography is not just okay—it's often the best way to shoot. When you're alone, you move at your own pace, follow your creative instincts without compromise, and blend into the environment more naturally. I've found that shooting solo actually reduces pressure because there's no one watching, judging, or waiting for you. You can spend five minutes on one corner if that's what feels right, or walk five miles following the light. Some of my best work happens when I'm alone with my camera and my thoughts.

What focal length is best for street photography?

There's no "best" focal length—only what works for your personality and shooting style. The conventional wisdom says 28mm or 35mm, but I prefer 50mm equivalent (which is a 35mm lens on my Leica CL crop sensor). The 50mm perspective gives me comfortable distance from my subjects, creates nice compression, and doesn't make me feel like I'm invading anyone's personal space. If you're uncomfortable getting close to strangers, telephoto focal lengths like 50mm, 85mm, or even 105mm can work beautifully. Don't let anyone tell you there's only one "right" way to do street photography.

How long should a street photography photowalk be?

Your photowalk should be exactly as long as it needs to be. Sometimes I'm out for 30 minutes and come home with great shots. Other times I'll wander for three hours and barely press the shutter. I've learned to follow my energy and creative flow rather than forcing a specific duration. Start with 30-60 minutes if you're new to photowalks, and let it evolve naturally. The goal is joy and creativity, not checking off a time requirement.

Can you do street photography with a Leica CL?

The Leica CL is fantastic for street photography! It's compact, discreet, produces excellent image quality, and the crop sensor actually gives you a nice 50mm perspective with a 35mm lens (or 75mm with a 50mm lens). The quiet shutter, simple controls, and build quality make it perfect for solo photowalks. I love that it doesn't scream "expensive camera" like a big DSLR or even a Leica M, so I can blend in while still getting Leica color and image quality. It's honestly my favorite camera for just grabbing and hitting the streets.

Do I need to follow street photography "rules"?

No! This is the most important thing I've learned: there are no rules, only guidelines that work for some people. You don't have to shoot wide angle, you don't have to get close to strangers, you don't have to shoot in black and white, and you certainly don't have to make yourself uncomfortable to get "good" street photography. Find what brings you joy and shoot that way. The best street photography comes from authentic vision, not from following someone else's rules. If 85mm or 105mm feels right, use it. If you prefer color, shoot color. Make your own rules.

What should I bring on a solo street photography walk?

Keep it simple—that's the beauty of solo photowalks. I typically bring just my Leica CL with one lens (usually my Voigtlander 35mm Nokton or TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4), and one or two spare batteries. That's it. No camera bag, no lens changes, no complicated gear setup. The simplicity is liberating. You can add a small water bottle and maybe your phone for emergencies, but resist the urge to pack heavy. The lighter you travel, the longer you'll walk and the more you'll enjoy it. Less gear equals more photography.

Support this website by using these affiliate links to shop on Amazon:

Leica M11 Digital Rangefinder Camera

Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 105mm f/1.4E ED Lens

Nikon FTZ II Mount Adapter

Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.4 II

Urth M adapter L

Sandisk 128GB Extreme Pro memory cards

Nikon Zf Mirrorless Camera

Nikon 50mm f1.8 S Lens for Z mount

My favorite Pocket Notebook

My favorite Mechanical Pencil

Thanks for following along on my ramblings here. If you're feeling the same pressure I felt—to shoot a certain way, use specific focal lengths, or build a YouTube following—I hope this gives you permission to just grab your camera and go shoot for the joy of it.

Are you doing solo photowalks? I'd love to hear about your experiences in the comments below. What focal length do you prefer? Do you follow the "rules" or have you found your own path?

Want more honest photography content without the pressure? Subscribe to my photography blog for weekly posts about real creative journeys, not just gear reviews and pixel-peeping.

The Hanimex 28mm f2.8 lens is a really interesting little lens...

Sometimes I just throw the dice on a vintage lens and occasionally it comes out really good and sometimes it is a dud. The Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 I picked up for $20 at Ball Photo in Asheville? This time it's a winner.

I paid something like $20 for this lens at Ball Photo. Twenty bucks. For that price, even if it turned out to be terrible, who cares? You're not risking much. But when it turns out to be actually good — sharp, solid build, nice colors, usable on a modern camera — that's when you feel like you found a hidden gem sitting in a used lens bin.

This is why I love digging through vintage gear at camera shops. Most people walk right past this stuff looking for autofocus lenses or the latest Sigma Art prime or whatever. Meanwhile there's a perfectly good 28mm sitting there for the price of lunch. Sure, it's got quirks (the sun flare is real), but it's also got character and it actually works. Can't beat that value.

The Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 on my Leica SL2 — not the prettiest combo, but it works.

Hunting for Glass at Ball Photo in Asheville

I went to Ashville NC on a small trip recently and on this trip I was doing photography. Well, when it is a photography trip I always make it a point to go to Ball Photo and just “go shopping” for something interesting. They have SO much vintage gear to choose from that it is almost overwhelming to be honest. It is not for the feint of heart to be honest about it. But today found me at Ball Photo and while there I started looking for some glass to pick out… Well I found some.

All-metal construction with nice silver accent rings. Built like lenses used to be built.

We all know how much I love to shoot with vintage glass and I am always on the hunt for a new lens to play with. I have Leica glass for the Leica SL2 and use it quite often but I still really enjoy adapting some older lens to the camera and then seeing what I can get with this lens and camera combination when I go out with it. It is almost a challenge to see if I can come away with something good using this old lens… What generally happens is that I slowly build a collection of lenses that I REALLY love to use and I am starting to collect a full set of these lenses. Some examples would be the 28mm f3.5 Asahi Optical M42 mount lens that I keep in the camera bag, this lens is literally one of my favorite lenses of all time for some reason. I just love the results I get with it on the Leica SL2 camera. Well today finds me using a lens that is 2/3 of s top faster and a little bigger too.

What Makes the Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 Special

The Hanimex 28mm f2.8 is a well made lens with the whole thing made of metal (probably brass from the way it feels but it could be anodized aluminum too I really am not sure) and has some really nice accents like the little silver bands around the focus ring which also has a faux leather appearance but I am almost certain is rubber. The range focus scale is graduated for every aperture marked (sans f4 for some reason) on the aperture ring, which is a nice touch for street photography. The detent clicks on the aperture ring are nice and pronounced as well as solid, no mushy aperture detents on this lens! All in all, it is a great little lens by design engineering standards. It is even a well designed attachment scheme as well with the M42 mount as it is easily adapted to about all mirrorless cameras on the market.

The M42 mount adapter — see those three tiny set screws? That's how you time the lens if you care about that kind of thing.

Adjusting M42 Adapters (If You Care About That Sort of Thing)

Many people also don’t realize that the M42 adapter can be adjusted to get the lens top dead center of the adapter too. There are three tiny set screws on the adapter that hold the threaded ring in place on the lens adapter to adjust this. To make this adjustment is simple, just screw the lens into the mount till it seats and snug it well so it wont work loose while in use. Next get the Allen key that came with the adapter and loosen the three set screws till the lens can spin in the mount and simply turn the lens till the center mark is top dead center of the adapter and then push in on the mount while tightening the set screws back down to make it hold the ring again and your done. It is that simple. Mine is slightly off center here and I have simple been too lazy to adjust it as it is close enough for me to be able to get out and shoot anyway. I don’t normally worry about it too much as once you set the adapter once, then all the lenses will time up and you don’t have to mess with it again. Installing lenses over the years on this adapter and tightening them has slipped the timing a little and this is why it is slightly off center. Once again, it is no big deal to me and i just go out and shoot…

Look, I know there are "better" lens mounts out there. But M42 is just so easy to adapt to basically anything. You can throw these lenses on Leica, Sony, Fuji, whatever — and they cost pennies compared to native glass. Plus there's something satisfying about the all-manual experience. No electronics, no autofocus hunting, just you and the glass trying to get the shot. It's photography the way it used to be, which sounds pretentious when I say it like that, but honestly it's just fun. There's a directness to it that I appreciate.

And here's the thing: M42 lenses were made by so many different manufacturers over the years that there are hundreds of options out there. Some are great, some are terrible, and part of the fun is just digging through used lens bins at places like Ball Photo to see what you find. It's like thrift shopping for camera gear.

First outing at Hamilton Place Mall in Chattanooga on Black Friday. The Hanimex handled it just fine.

Taking It to the Mall on Black Friday (Because Why Not)

So the first official outing with this lens was to go to the mall in Chattanooga TN with it and capture some Christmas spirit with it…on black Friday no less.

Well to be quite honest, it performed wonderfully. Now to be fair, the camera does have IBIS in it and this allows me to shoot at pretty slow shutter speeds without the need for a tripod. As long as you go into the camera settings and tell the camera it is a 28mm lens, the camera can compensate for movement really well allowing for incredibly slow shutter speeds like the last photo in this string from the mall where it was 1/10 of a second…hand held. Most of the other photos are shot at 1/250 second to freeze the people so that I can show the current clothing styles as well as the general appearance of the mall in 2023.

The Leica SL2's IBIS is genuinely a game-changer for vintage glass. Without it, that 1/10 second handheld shot at the mall would've been a blurry mess — the old "reciprocal rule" says you need at least 1/30 second for a 28mm lens, and that's being optimistic. But with IBIS doing its thing, I can get away with shutter speeds that should be impossible with a manual lens.

This is why I keep coming back to the SL2 for adapted lenses. It makes old glass way more usable than it has any right to be. You're essentially taking a lens from the 1960s or 70s and giving it capabilities it was never designed to have. Nikon didn't build this Hanimex thinking someone would hand-hold it at 1/10 second in a mall forty years later.

1/250 second to freeze the people and capture 2023 fashion in all its glory.

The Christmas decorations at the mall — shot handheld at 1/10 second thanks to the SL2's IBIS.

1/250 second to freeze the people and capture 2023 fashion in all its glory.

The Christmas decorations at the mall — shot handheld at 1/10 second thanks to the SL2's IBIS.

1/250 second to freeze the people and capture 2023 fashion in all its glory.

The Christmas decorations at the mall — shot handheld at 1/10 second thanks to the SL2's IBIS.

1/250 second to freeze the people and capture 2023 fashion in all its glory.

The Christmas decorations at the mall — shot handheld at 1/10 second thanks to the SL2's IBIS.

All in all, the Hanimex performed extremely well in this role. The images are sharp and the colors are easily adjusted in post processing to give any look you want. It also doesn’t hurt to have that Leica “look” from the camera processing the colors before saving the RAW file too, Leica does something special with their processing to give the colors a look that is unique to Leica cameras. It is hard to explain, but it is a thing.

The Sun Flare Problem — Yeah, It's Bad

In the next photos I didn’t show all the images as they just reflect what it is like to shoot indoors where there is controlled light and no sun to deal with. The following photos show what happens when you have the sun shining on the front element.

Same shot as the next one but the lens is shaded from the sun — clean and sharp.

Above is the same photo as the one right under this text except that I shaded the lens from the sun. This lens cant handle the sun shining on it from any angle without showing you that it was happening with some sort of sun flare in the image. In the below image there is geometric artifacts as well as a overall glare from the sun.

What happens when the sun hits the front element. Vintage lenses and coatings don't play nice with direct sunlight.

In the below photo you can also see the geometric glare in the center of frame, this could be used to your advantage in some applications like vintage style portraits where you position the subject to where the flare adds to the aesthetic of the image. Here the flare doesn’t do that though and is more of a nuisance that anything else. So this is something to keep in mind when using vintage glass, you will run into these kinds of problems from time to time like the older generation has to do…lol.

That geometric glare in the center? Classic vintage lens behavior. Could be useful for portraits if you position it right.

Can You Shoot Portraits with a 28mm? Actually, Yes

Lastly, can you make portraits with the 28mm lens? The answer is yes, you can as long as you are careful with the composition and keep the subject centered like I did here. The 28mm lens can distort toward the edges so it is imperative to keep the person in the center of the photo as much as humanly possible if you want the image to turn out like anything you want at all. Maria was gracious and allowed me to make her portrait at the mall using one of the advertising lights as a “studio light” to give us nice diffused side light and I think the image turned out really well for a 60 year old lens with improvised lighting.

Maria at the mall using an advertising light as improvised diffused side lighting. Not bad for a 60-year-old lens.

Now, shooting portraits with a 28mm isn't what most people would recommend. The conventional wisdom is 50mm or 85mm for portraits, and there's good reason for that — longer focal lengths are more flattering and don't distort faces. But if you keep your subject centered and don't get too close, a 28mm can work. The key is composition and knowing the lens's limitations.

Maria's portrait here is proof that it's doable. I kept her in the center of the frame where distortion is minimal, used the advertising light for nice diffused side lighting, and shot from a reasonable distance. If I'd moved her to the edge of the frame or gotten right up in her face, it would've looked weird. But treated carefully, a 28mm can give you a portrait with some environmental context in the background, which can be a nice look.

Just know what you're getting into. This isn't a portrait lens. But it can make portraits if you're intentional about it.

As well as this blog post, I also have a video sharing some of these points and showing more of the old Sitton’s mill location should you want to go check that out at the link below.

Thanks and if you are into vintage glass, this is a keeper in my book — and for pennies too. Twenty bucks for a solid 28mm that actually performs? I'll take that deal every time. Sure it doesn't like the sun and you probably won't shoot portraits with it every day, but as a walkaround lens for street photography or just messing around? It's great.

So with that, get your camera out and go take a picture with it. Maybe even throw the dice on some weird vintage lens you've never heard of. You might just find a winner.

Questions People Ask About the Hanimex 28mm f/2.8

Is the Hanimex 28mm f/2.8 any good?

Yeah, it's actually pretty good for the price. Sharp in the center, solid build quality, and it handles well on modern mirrorless cameras with IBIS. The biggest issue is sun flare — this lens does NOT like having the sun anywhere near the front element. You'll get geometric artifacts and overall loss of contrast if you're shooting with the sun in or near the frame. But for $20-30, it's absolutely worth picking up if you see one. I mean, at that price, even if it's just okay, who cares? But when it turns out to be actually good, you feel like you found a hidden gem.

What mount is the Hanimex 28mm f/2.8?

M42 screw mount, which is great because you can adapt it to basically any mirrorless camera. I use it on my Leica SL2 with an M42-to-L adapter, but it works just as well on Sony E-mount, Fuji X-mount, Canon RF, whatever you've got. M42 is one of those universal old-school mounts that just adapts to everything. Plus the adapters are cheap and plentiful, so you're not spending a fortune to use these lenses on modern cameras.

Can you use vintage lenses on the Leica SL2?

Absolutely. The Leica SL2's IBIS makes vintage glass way more usable than it used to be. You can hand-hold at slower shutter speeds that would normally require a tripod, and the camera's focus peaking makes manual focusing pretty straightforward once you get used to it. Plus the L-mount has a short flange distance so you can adapt almost anything — M42, Nikon F, Canon FD, Leica M, you name it. I actually prefer shooting with adapted vintage lenses on the SL2 sometimes because it's just more fun than using modern autofocus glass.

How do you deal with sun flare on vintage lenses?

Use a lens hood or just shade the lens with your hand when the sun is hitting the front element. Vintage lens coatings from the 60s and 70s aren't anywhere near as good as modern multi-coatings, so direct sunlight will give you all kinds of flare, ghost images, and loss of contrast. If you're shooting into the sun or with bright light hitting the lens at an angle, expect problems. It's just how old glass behaves. Sometimes you can use it creatively for that vintage look, but most of the time it's just annoying. I literally had to shade the lens with my hand at Sitton's Mill to get clean shots.

Is 28mm good for street photography?

It's a little wider than the classic 35mm or 50mm focal lengths most people use for street, but yeah, it works. You get more context in the frame, which is good for environmental portraits or showing a whole scene instead of isolating subjects. The trade-off is that 28mm has more distortion at the edges, so you need to be careful about composition. Keep important stuff — especially people's faces — toward the center of the frame. I shot a portrait of Maria at the mall with this lens and it turned out great, but I made sure to keep her centered. If I'd put her at the edge of the frame, her face would've looked stretched and weird.

Where can I buy a Hanimex 28mm f/2.8?

I got mine at Ball Photo in Asheville, North Carolina for about $20. They have an absolutely overwhelming amount of vintage gear if you're ever in the area. Otherwise, check eBay, KEH Camera, or local camera shops that carry used gear. These lenses aren't rare or collectible, so they're usually pretty cheap when you find them. Don't overpay — if someone's asking more than $30-40 for one, keep looking. There are plenty of them out there.

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Have you shot with the Hanimex 28mm or other obscure vintage glass? Drop a comment below — I'd love to hear what hidden gems you've found digging through used lens bins.

Chattanooga Photowalk: Leica SL2 + Yashica 28mm Street Photography

Chattanooga's Rossville Avenue is one of those streets most people drive past without a second thought. But stop and look closer—you'll find pre-WWII architecture, a century-old cafe that's about to close forever, and urban decay that looks like a movie set. That's exactly what I did with my Leica SL2 and a vintage Yashica 28mm f/2.8 lens: parked for one hour of street photography and came away with something worth sharing.

Hamilton Parts Distributors: Pre-War Architecture in Chattanooga

Today we find me in Chattanooga yet again and this time I am setup on a side street off of Main street called Rossville Avenue and this road has some really neat old buildings on it, some of which I have photographed in the past but I like to get photos of them as I go along to show how they change with time. I get parked and pay for one hour of parking so I have to make it count. Putting a little pressure on myself to come away with SOMETHING of value in this time allotment.,,

Rossville Avenue in Chattanooga—one of those streets you drive past but never really see. Time to change that.

My first stop is the Hamilton Parts Distributors building that has been NOT a parts distributor for quite some time as of this point…2023. The building is really starting to show its age too with numerous windows bricked up on the sides as well as the front giving it a sort of dystopian imbalanced look. This could be a set right out of a movie or something. I took several photos from different angles today and some look better than others. I really like the front door and the corner that I get today for some reason… Here they are, what do you think?

I love how the building still has remnants of the signage that was painted on it some time in the past. Also look at the foundation material—today it's all either poured concrete or cement blocks and has been for many decades. So I'm going to speculate this is pre-war construction, meaning before World War II, based on these limestone foundation stones.

These stones look like they were repurposed from another construction site that existed before this building did. I've seen evidence of these cut stones going back to the mid-19th century in Chattanooga, so I know these are probably something left over either from a fire or were just cast off when another building was demolished. The people who built this building saw a chance to save a few dollars on this part of the construction.

Also notice that they didn't think these stones were very appealing—they hid them behind a mortar stucco finish as you can see in the front door photo. Practical, but not pretty.

What I really love about locations like this is that they tell stories about how Chattanooga was built. This isn't some sterile modern construction—this is history you can see and photograph. The bricked-up windows, the deteriorating facade, the repurposed foundation stones—it all adds up to a building that looks like it could be a set piece in a dystopian film. And it's just sitting here on Rossville Avenue where most people never even glance at it.

The corner angle showing all those bricked-up windows. Dystopian and unbalanced—looks like a movie set.

The front entrance of the old Hamilton Parts Distributors building. Notice the limestone foundation stones—likely pre-WWII construction repurposed from an earlier building.

Zarzours Cafe: 100 Years of Chattanooga History (Closing Soon)

My next stop was right next door at Zarzours Cafe.

Zarzours Cafe—over 100 years in business and closing in less than a month. I'll be eating there before they close. How could I not?

This cafe has been in business for over 100 years. Yeah, you read that right—a century, as you can see on their sign. And it's closing in less than a month from when I took these photos.

I'd never eaten there before this photowalk, which honestly is a little embarrassing considering how long they've been around. But I made a promise to myself right then: I'm going to sit at their cafe and enjoy the fine cuisine they've been serving for a century before they close their doors for good. How could I let that slide? A business that survives 100 years in Chattanooga—through the Great Depression, World War II, economic changes, everything—deserves to be experienced and remembered.

This is what urban photography is really about for me. Sure, you can go shoot pretty buildings and interesting light, and that's fine. But when you're documenting places like Zarzours that are about to disappear, you're preserving Chattanooga history. These photos matter in a way that just "pretty pictures" don't. In ten years, twenty years, someone's going to search for Zarzours Cafe and these images will be part of the record of what it looked like before it closed.

Back to the walk at hand. I took a couple of photos of the restaurant and parking area and headed on down the street.

Another angle of Zarzours. A century of Chattanooga history about to become just a memory.

Koch Foods and Lookout Mountain: Iconic Chattanooga Skyline

The next stop was at the Koch Foods Processing plant. This is one of two processing plants inside the city that I am aware of. These have been here for decades too so they are pretty much fixtures of the city at this point. One is on Broad street and the other is here on Rossville Ave. It being such an iconic location coupled with the skyline containing Lookout Mtn as well makes for a cool photo to me.

Koch Foods processing plant with Lookout Mountain in the background—an iconic Chattanooga skyline view that's been here for decades.

Main Street Chattanooga: Urban Photography in Action

After the chicken plant, I made my way over to Main street and did a little photography on Main as well. Main usually has something really colorful as well as interesting too, this is why I usually always make my way over and look around for a little while at a minimum…

Same spot, faster shutter speed to freeze the construction scene. Main Street always has something interesting going on.

Leica SL2 + Yashica 28mm: Why This Combo Works for Street Photography

These two photos just go to show what all can be found on Main street even when it is not having some sort of special event. All it takes is a little creativity and time of your part to come away with some interesting photos. Now you might be thinking these are not interesting photos, and you will be right as the photo interest rate will vary from person to person, but I found that these to be quite interesting so I am sharing them with you…lol. The difference between the two photo primarily is the shutter speed as one is really slow to blur the truck and the other is faster so it will capture the whole construction scene with out any motion blur on my part.

Main Street with a slow shutter to blur the truck. The Leica SL2's IBIS makes this kind of handheld shot possible.

Leica SL2 + Yashica 28mm: Why This Combo Works for Street Photography

The Yashica 28mm f/2.8 is one of those vintage lenses that just works. It's not fancy, it's not expensive, and it doesn't have modern coatings or any electronic connections. But for street and urban photography like this Chattanooga photowalk, it's exactly what I need.

The 28mm focal length gives you enough width to capture environmental context—like the whole Hamilton Parts building facade or the Koch Foods plant with Lookout Mountain in the background—without getting into ultra-wide territory where everything starts looking distorted. It's the kind of focal length where you can work close to your subject or step back and get the whole scene, and either way, the composition feels natural.

Paired with the Leica SL2, this combination is almost perfect for what I'm doing. The SL2's IBIS (in-body image stabilization) means I can hand-hold at slower shutter speeds than I could with any other camera. That Main Street shot where I blurred the truck? That's 1/15 second or slower, handheld, with a manual focus lens. Without IBIS, that would be a blurry mess. With the SL2 compensating for camera shake, it's clean and usable.

The focus peaking on the SL2 makes manual focusing with the Yashica fast and accurate. I set focus peaking to show me exactly where sharp focus is, and between that and the bright EVF, I can nail focus even in challenging light. It's honestly more enjoyable to shoot with than autofocus sometimes—you're more engaged with the process, more intentional about what you're focusing on.

And here's the best part: the Yashica 28mm cost me a fraction of what a native L-mount lens would cost. I get great image quality, I enjoy the process, and I'm not worried about damaging an expensive modern lens while walking around industrial areas of Chattanooga photographing old buildings. It's the perfect urban photography setup.

IBIS and Adapted Lenses: Technical Advantages of the Leica SL2

One thing I want to emphasize about shooting adapted vintage lenses on the Leica SL2 is how much the IBIS changes what's possible. In-body image stabilization isn't just a convenience feature—it fundamentally changes how you can use manual focus lenses in real-world shooting.

With older cameras, the rule of thumb was that your minimum handheld shutter speed should be roughly 1/focal length. For a 28mm lens, that means 1/30 second or faster. Slower than that and you'd get camera shake blur unless you had very steady hands or were bracing against something.

The SL2's IBIS throws that old rule out the window. I regularly shoot at 1/15 second, 1/8 second, sometimes even slower if I'm careful. The sensor is compensating for my hand movement in real-time, which means I can use lower ISOs for better image quality, or shoot in lower light conditions without needing a tripod.

For street and urban photography where you're often in shaded areas or shooting late in the day, this is huge. The Yashica 28mm has a maximum aperture of f/2.8, which is good but not super fast. In dimmer light, without IBIS, I'd be pushing ISO up to 1600 or 3200 to maintain usable shutter speeds. With IBIS, I can stay at ISO 400 or 800 and let the shutter speed drop, knowing the stabilization will keep things sharp.

It's one of those features that doesn't seem like a big deal until you actually use it in the field, and then you wonder how you ever shot without it. Vintage glass on a modern mirrorless body with IBIS is genuinely the best of both worlds.

Some are asking…

Best Time to Shoot Rossville Avenue: Morning light is good for the Hamilton Parts building facade. Late afternoon gives you nice side light on Zarzours and the other buildings along the street. Main Street is active all day, but I prefer shooting there in the afternoon or early evening when the light gets more interesting.

Parking and Logistics: Like I mentioned, metered parking is available right on Rossville Avenue. One hour was enough time for me to hit Hamilton Parts, Zarzours, Koch Foods, and make my way to Main Street. If you want to spend more time, pay for two hours to give yourself breathing room.

Safety: This isn't the touristy part of Chattanooga (it is more for the local crowd in this area) so just be aware of your surroundings. It borders an industrial area, not dangerous, but use common sense. Don't leave gear visible in your car, keep your camera bag close, and stay alert. I've never had any issues, but it's always smart to be aware when you're photographing in less-traveled parts of town.

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Frequently Asked Questions About Chattanooga Photography

Where is the best street photography in Chattanooga?

Main Street and Rossville Avenue are excellent for urban and street photography. Main Street is more polished with events, murals, and restaurants—it's the tourist-friendly side of downtown. Rossville Avenue offers grittier architecture and history. The area around the old Hamilton Parts Distributors building has pre-WWII structures that make for compelling photography if you're into urban decay and architectural history.

For skyline shots, look for locations where you can frame Lookout Mountain in the background—it's iconic Chattanooga and makes for instantly recognizable compositions. The Koch Foods plant area on Rossville gives you that view. Also worth checking: the riverfront, the Walnut Street Bridge, and the side streets off Main where you'll find older buildings and interesting character that don't make it into the tourist brochures.

Is Zarzours Cafe still open in Chattanooga?

As of when I took these photos in late 2023, Zarzours Cafe was preparing to close after over 100 years in business. This century-old Chattanooga institution on Rossville Avenue was a landmark, and I made it a point to photograph it—and eat there—before it closed forever. If you're reading this after 2023, it's likely already closed, which makes these photos even more valuable as historical documentation of Chattanooga's changing landscape.

It's one of those things that makes urban photography meaningful to me. You're not just capturing pretty pictures—you're documenting history before it disappears. Businesses that survive 100 years deserve to be remembered, and photography is how we do that.

Can you use vintage lenses for street photography?

Absolutely. I shot this entire Chattanooga photowalk with a Yashica 28mm f/2.8—a vintage adapted lens on my Leica SL2. The 28mm focal length is great for street photography because it captures environmental context without being too wide or distorted. You get the subject plus the surrounding architecture and scene, which tells a more complete story.

The Leica SL2's IBIS and focus peaking make manual focusing with vintage glass practical and enjoyable even in fast-moving street situations. Plus, vintage lenses have character and cost a fraction of modern glass. For street photography where you're often shooting at f/5.6 to f/8 anyway, vintage lenses perform beautifully. The Yashica 28mm is sharp, handles well, and cost me way less than any modern L-mount 28mm would.

What camera settings work best for urban photography?

For urban photography like this Chattanooga photowalk, I typically shoot in aperture priority mode at f/5.6 to f/8. This gives you good depth of field to keep both foreground and background reasonably sharp while keeping shutter speeds manageable in changing light conditions.

The Leica SL2's IBIS lets me hand-hold at slower speeds than I could with other cameras—like that Main Street shot with the motion-blurred truck. I set a minimum ISO (usually 100-400 depending on available light) and let the camera adjust shutter speed based on the scene. For adapted manual lenses like the Yashica 28mm, I use focus peaking to nail focus quickly and confidently.

If you're shooting architecture specifically, sometimes I'll stop down to f/11 or f/16 for maximum sharpness corner-to-corner, but for general street photography, f/5.6 to f/8 is the sweet spot.

Where can I park for photography on Rossville Avenue in Chattanooga?

There's metered street parking along Rossville Avenue. I paid for one hour of parking which gave me enough time to walk and photograph the Hamilton Parts building, Zarzours Cafe, Koch Foods, and make my way over to Main Street. The parking is affordable and convenient, and the walk between all these locations is pretty short—maybe a quarter mile total if you're hitting everything.

Just be aware of your surroundings. This area is more industrial and local than touristy, so stay alert when you're setting up shots and wandering around. It's not dangerous, but it's also not the Walnut Street Bridge where there are tourists everywhere. Just use common sense like you would in any urban environment.

How do you photograph closing businesses before they're gone?

When I heard Zarzours Cafe was closing after 100 years, I made it a priority to photograph it while I still could. These historical documentation shots become more valuable over time as the city changes. My advice: shoot multiple angles, capture signage clearly, and include contextual details like the parking lot, neighboring buildings, and street views that show where it sits in the neighborhood.

Take both "beauty shots" and straightforward documentary photos. You're not just making art—you're preserving Chattanooga history. The signage, the facade, the surrounding context—all of it matters for the historical record.

And if you can, patronize the business before it closes. I planned to eat at Zarzours before they shut down for good. If something is worth photographing because it's historically significant, it's worth supporting while you still can.

That's one hour of parking on Rossville Avenue in Chattanooga—from pre-WWII architecture at Hamilton Parts Distributors to a century-old cafe about to close forever, to the iconic skyline view at Koch Foods with Lookout Mountain in the background. Not bad for a quick urban photowalk with a Leica SL2 and a vintage 28mm lens.

Chattanooga has so much history hiding in plain sight. You just have to park, get out, and look. Next time you're driving through, skip Main Street for a minute and explore Rossville Avenue. You'll find stories in every building.

Have you photographed Chattanooga or documented historic locations before they're gone? Drop a comment—I'd love to hear about your urban photography spots.

Want more Chattanooga photography and Leica SL2 content? Check out my other photowalks and vintage lens reviews on the blog.

What Should You Photograph? A Documentary Photographer's Philosophy

Ok, this is going to be a short and sweet kind of post. I normally make YouTube videos about things that involve lots of images playing past the viewer and just lay some music over it to more or less inspire the viewer to do what I say at the end…”Get your camera out and go take a picture with it”

What Do You Really Like to Photograph?

A couple painting down by the Tennessee River in Chattanooga, using iPhone light as the sun sets. The light was just too good to pass up. This is what I mean by chasing interesting light!

Never before has this been a truer statement than today. But we need to ask ourselves an important question…what do we like to shoot?

With world events being what they are and how the physical world around us is changing constantly as time goes on, I am not ready to just let it pass me by without documenting some of it as I go. Armed with this knowledge, I look for two things to photograph, things that will be gone soon or interesting light. That is what drew me to the photo above of the couple painting down by the river by iPhone light. The light was just too good to pass up.

Documentary Photography vs. Art Photography

Look, I need to be honest about something. I'm not trying to make art. I'm trying to make a record. There's a difference, and it took me a long time to be okay with that difference!

Art photography is about creating something beautiful or meaningful that didn't exist before. It's intentional, it's creative, it's about YOUR vision and YOUR interpretation. And that's great! The world needs art photographers.

Documentary photography is different. It's about capturing what IS, not what could be. It's about preservation, about creating a historical record, about showing things that will be gone tomorrow or next week or next year. When I photograph a building that's about to be demolished, I'm not trying to make it beautiful (though sometimes it is). I'm trying to make sure someone, somewhere, sometime in the future can see what it looked like before it disappeared.

Think about old photos from the 1800s or early 1900s. We don't look at those and judge them as "good photography" or "bad photography." We look at them as historical documents. They show us what streets looked like, what people wore, how buildings were constructed. That's what I'm doing, just with better cameras!

The Kinley hotel construction series below? That's not art. That's documentation. But in 50 years, someone researching Chattanooga's development will be glad those photos exist. The ADAMS sign preservation story? Someone doing historical research will use those images. That's the value of documentary photography, and it's a value I'm proud to contribute to my community.

You see, I am not what I would call an artist. I don’t think my photography is that noteworthy. Once I am gone, maybe someone will find these hard drives and then will think they are filled with the coolest photos and video the world has ever seen, just not today. That being said, I do think that I am a decent documentary photographer and that as time goes on I get better with it.

Things I normally photograph will be buildings that are gone now, that I could tell somehow that were probably headed for the wrecking ball or like the series below where I photo-documented the construction of the Kinley hotel and how there is a Coca-cola sign that is now hidden from view between the buildings because of the hotel. For me this is the sort of thing that is simply fascinating for some reason.

The Two Things I Photograph (And Why)

After years of shooting and trying different subjects and styles, I've boiled down what I actually photograph to TWO core things:

1. Things that will be gone soon This includes buildings scheduled for demolition, businesses that are closing, signs that are coming down, and landscapes that are about to change. The world changes fast, especially in cities. If I don't photograph it now, nobody will, and it'll just be gone forever!

The Kinley hotel construction? I knew that Coca-Cola sign would be hidden forever once the hotel went up. So I documented it. The old buildings on Rossville Avenue? Many of them won't be here in 10 years. I'm making sure we have a record of what they looked like.

2. Interesting light Sometimes the light is just too good to pass up. That couple painting by the river using iPhone light? The light was perfect. The sunset reflecting on the river with street lights spilling across the water? Had to stop and capture it. Night scenes with lit marquees and neon signs? Yeah, that's interesting light right there!

Here's the thing: these two categories overlap more than you'd think. Interesting light often happens during times of change. Dawn, dusk, construction lights at night, the golden hour before a storm. Light and change go together in photography!

How to find YOUR two things: Ask yourself: what do I keep photographing over and over? Not what you WANT to photograph or what you think you SHOULD photograph. What do you ACTUALLY photograph when you just go out with your camera for fun?

Look through your last 100 photos. What patterns do you see? For me, it was always buildings and light. For you, it might be people's faces, or textures, or motion, or something I'd never think of. The point is to be honest about what actually draws your attention in the field!

Documenting Chattanooga's Changing Landscape

The Coca-Cola sign that was visible downtown before the Kinley hotel construction. Once the hotel went up, this sign was hidden forever between buildings. This is exactly why I photograph things that will be gone soon!

The Kinley Hotel Construction Series: A Photography Case Study

The Kinley hotel coming out of the ground. I documented this entire construction project knowing it would change the downtown Chattanooga skyline permanently.

Mid-construction on the Kinley. The building taking shape and starting to hide the Coca-Cola sign that was behind it.

The Kinley with its distinctive blue exterior starting to appear. Each stage of construction tells part of the story of how Chattanooga is changing.

Later stage construction showing the ADAMS building sign across the street. Notice how the sign appears in these later photos once I thought to cross the street for a wider angle. That sign has its own story!

The ADAMS Sign: Hidden History Preserved

As an added bonus in these photos there is also another piece of history that undergoes a change as well. If you will notice that the sign on the corner for the ADAMS building appears in the last 4 photos where I thought to go across the street and get the image. This sign survives into the renovation and it is restored and back in place at the end. The ADAMS building no longer exists but the sign somehow survives into the current day…

The ADAMS building sign in its original weathered condition. The ADAMS building itself no longer exists, but somehow this sign survived into the renovation.

Chattanooga is going through massive change right now, and has been for the past 10-15 years. The downtown area is being redeveloped, new hotels are going up, old buildings are being renovated or torn down, and the whole character of certain neighborhoods is shifting.

This makes it perfect for documentary photography! There's always something changing, always some building in transition, always some piece of history that's about to disappear or transform.

The Kinley hotel construction is just one example. That entire block looked completely different five years ago. The Coca-Cola sign that's now hidden between buildings? That was a prominent downtown landmark for decades. Now you can only see it from certain angles, and soon it'll probably be gone entirely when the building it's painted on gets renovated or demolished.

The ADAMS building sign surviving the renovation? That's actually unusual! Most old signs don't make it through development. The fact that someone cared enough to preserve and restore that sign says something about Chattanooga's relationship with its history. That story is worth documenting!

Other Chattanooga locations I've documented that are now gone or changed: the old Terminal Station before its renovation, several restaurants and businesses that closed during COVID, vintage signage that's been removed or painted over, and entire blocks that look nothing like they did five years ago.

If you live in any city or town that's growing or changing, you have the same opportunity. Start photographing what's there NOW, because it won't be there forever. Future historians and your community will thank you!

The same ADAMS sign after restoration. They actually cared enough to preserve and restore it! This is unusual. Most old signs don't survive development.

Chasing Light: Night Photography in Small Towns

Another aspect of my photography is more artistic where I will shoot at night to capture interesting light in different areas of the city, where ever that might be. I have began to look for movie marques in the town square of small towns and get them lit up at night.

The Marietta Square Theatre at night in August 2023. I've started looking for movie marquees in small town squares and photographing them lit up at night. There's something special about these historic theaters!

But the real thing I have started to do it just take photos. Things that happen around me like the photo here of the smoke from local wildfires because it hasn’t rained in something like 2 or 3 months at this point.

Smoke from local wildfires during a 2-3 month drought. Sometimes documentary photography is just capturing what's happening around you, even if it's not pretty. This is what November 2023 looked like in our region.

These next two photos were not taken on the same night, but were captured about 1/4 mile of each other. One is the river front and I just liked the way the light fell that night on the water as well as the light spill from the street lights across the river and the color of the sunset all just came together for a great photo. The next one is simply a photo of a couple of buildings on Market and 5th street. The signage and the lights just made for a cool photo to me so I stopped for a second and grabbed a few images of it at varying exposure levels so I could get the lit signs to expose properly as well as the rest of the stuff. It is just a cool photo to me.

Night Photography Settings and Approach"

Since a lot of what I shoot involves low light and night photography, let me give you the practical details of how I actually do this.

Camera Settings: For night photography like the movie marquee shot, I'm typically shooting at ISO 400-800, aperture around f/2.8 to f/4, and shutter speeds ranging from 1/30 second to several seconds depending on the scene. The key is having a camera with good high ISO performance (my Leica SL2 handles this well) and either using a tripod or bracing against something solid.

For the river reflection shot, I used a longer exposure (probably 2-3 seconds) to smooth out the water and capture the light trails. This means a tripod is basically required unless you want blur!

Equipment: You don't need fancy gear for night photography, but you do need:

• A camera that can handle high ISO without too much noise (or just be willing to make really long exposures to make up for it)

• A fast lens (f/2.8 or wider is ideal)

• A tripod or something to brace against

• Patience to let your eyes adjust and find the light

I shoot with the Leica SL2 and various vintage lenses, often wide open or close to it. The in-body stabilization helps for handheld shots at slower shutter speeds.

Finding the Light: The best night photography happens during blue hour (the 20-30 minutes after sunset before it's fully dark). You get ambient light from the sky plus artificial lights from buildings and streets. This creates depth and color that pure darkness doesn't give you.

Also, look for lit signage! Movie marquees, neon signs, storefronts with their lights on. These create natural focal points and add color to night scenes.

The riverfront at sunset with street lights reflecting across the water. Sometimes all the light just comes together. The sunset color, the street light spill, the reflections. This is why I chase the light!

Buildings on Market and 5th Street in Chattanooga. The lit signage and building lights just made for a cool photo that night. I stopped and grabbed a few images at varying exposure levels to get everything exposed properly.

If you have not figured it out yet, I want you to start taking a long hard look at what it is that you enjoy photographing. i mean REALLY boil it down to the simplest components. For me it was the two things I just mentioned, for you it might be saturated colors or people waving at you or blur in your photo. The point is, don’t just generalize your answer, the only person you hurt in this event is yourself if you are not 100% truthful.

If you like to watch videos too, here is the video I did on the same subject.

Your Style Will Evolve (And That's Good)

Here's something important I want you to understand: your photography style WILL change over time, and that's not just okay, it's actually good!

I started out obsessed with urban decay. Abandoned buildings, peeling paint, broken windows, industrial ruins. I thought that's what I wanted to photograph forever. And you know what? It was a good starting point! It got me out shooting, it taught me about light and composition, and it connected me with other photographers who liked the same aesthetic.

But over time, I realized urban decay wasn't the root of what I liked. It was just a symptom of something deeper: I was drawn to things that were disappearing, to the passage of time, to change and transformation. Urban decay just made that visible in an obvious way!

Once I understood that pattern, my photography opened up. Now I photograph construction (the opposite of decay!), historic signs being preserved, changing skylines, and light at different times of day. All of these connect to that same root interest in time and change.

The lesson: Start with what attracts you right now, but stay open to discovering the deeper pattern underneath. Don't lock yourself into "I'm an urban decay photographer" or "I only shoot landscapes" or whatever. Let your interests evolve!

Ask yourself every six months: what am I actually photographing these days? What patterns do I see? What keeps drawing my attention? Your answers might surprise you, and that's when the most interesting growth happens.

For you, it might not be about time and change at all. Maybe you'll discover you're really interested in human connection, or geometric patterns, or the way weather affects a scene. The point is to keep asking the question and being honest about the answer!

So ask yourself what it is that you like and then go out and make photos of that AND don’t let yourself fall into the trap of not being able to change this with time. I started out wanting to shoot urban decay only, but it turned out that was not the root of what I like to shoot, but it led me to it. Anyway, with that said, get your camera out and go take a picture with it!

If you're struggling to figure out what YOU actually like to photograph, here are some questions that helped me:

1. What photos do you KEEP coming back to look at? Not the ones you think you should like, but the ones you actually open and view again. Those reveal something about your real interests.

2. What do you photograph when nobody's watching or judging? Forget Instagram, forget what's popular, forget what other photographers are doing. What do YOU photograph just because you want to?

3. What makes you stop and say "I need to capture this"? Pay attention to that impulse! What triggers it? Light? A specific subject? A moment in time? That's your style trying to tell you something.

4. What do you get excited to show people? When you're showing photos to friends or family, which ones do you genuinely want them to see? Not the "best" technically, but the ones you're proud of or excited about?

5. If you could only photograph ONE thing for the rest of your life, what would it be? This is a hard question, but it forces you to identify what really matters to you in photography.

For me, the answers kept pointing to documentation, preservation, and light. Your answers will point somewhere else, and that's your path forward!

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Leica M11 Digital Rangefinder Camera

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Urth M adapter L

Sandisk 128GB Extreme Pro memory cards

Nikon Zf Mirrorless Camera

Nikon 50mm f1.8 S Lens for Z mount

My favorite Pocket Notebook

My favorite Mechanical Pencil

Frequently Asked Questions About Finding Your Photography Style

How do I find my photography style?

Start by being brutally honest about what you actually photograph, not what you think you should photograph. Look through your last 100 photos and identify patterns. What subjects keep appearing? What situations make you stop and take photos? For me, it was always buildings that were changing or disappearing, plus interesting light conditions. Your patterns will be different! The key is honest self-reflection, not copying what popular photographers are doing. Your style is already there in your work. You just need to identify it and lean into it intentionally.

What is documentary photography?

Documentary photography is about creating a historical record, not about creating art (though it can be both!). When I photograph a building before it's demolished or document a construction project, I'm preserving something for the future. Documentary photography captures what IS, not what you wish it was or what you imagine it could be. Think about old photographs from the 1800s. We value those not as art but as historical documents. That's documentary photography. It serves your community by preserving visual history that will matter to future generations.

What should I photograph as a beginner?

Photograph whatever genuinely interests you right now, even if it seems boring or obvious. Don't worry about finding your "style" immediately. Just shoot! I started photographing urban decay because that's what looked cool to me at the time. Years later, I realized the deeper pattern (things disappearing, interesting light), but I couldn't have discovered that without first spending time shooting what initially attracted me. Start with what interests you, shoot a LOT, and let your patterns emerge naturally over time.

How do you photograph at night without a tripod?

You need a camera with good high ISO performance and the fastest lens you can get (f/2.8 or wider is ideal). I typically shoot at ISO 400-800 for night photography, sometimes higher if needed. Use a wide aperture (f/2.8 or f/4) to let in more light, and brace yourself against something solid like a wall or pole. The Leica SL2's in-body stabilization helps me handhold at slower shutter speeds than I could with other cameras. That said, a tripod is still better for really dark scenes or long exposures! Don't be afraid to carry a small travel tripod.

Can your photography style change over time?

Yes, and it should! My photography style has evolved significantly. I started obsessed with urban decay, then realized I was really interested in things that were disappearing or transforming. That deeper understanding opened up new subjects: construction photography, historic sign preservation, changing skylines. Don't lock yourself into one style forever. Every six months, ask yourself: what am I actually photographing these days? What patterns do I see? Let your style evolve as you grow and learn more about what really interests you.

What makes Chattanooga good for documentary photography?

Chattanooga is going through massive urban development right now. New hotels, renovated buildings, changing neighborhoods, businesses closing and opening. This constant change makes it perfect for documentary photography! There's always something disappearing or transforming. The Kinley hotel covering the old Coca-Cola sign, the ADAMS sign surviving a building renovation, old businesses on Rossville Avenue. These changes are worth documenting because future generations will want to see what Chattanooga looked like during this transformation period. Your town probably has similar changes happening!

How do I know if I'm a documentary photographer or an art photographer?

Ask yourself: when you take a photo, are you trying to capture what's really there, or are you trying to create something new? Documentary photography is about preservation and record-keeping. Art photography is about personal vision and creative expression. Many photographers do both! I'm primarily documentary focused because I care more about preserving history than making beautiful images (though sometimes they're both). There's no wrong answer here. It's just about understanding your own motivations and leaning into what actually drives you to pick up a camera.

What camera do I need for documentary photography?

Any camera works for documentary photography! Documentary is about subject and intention, not gear. That said, certain features help: good low light performance (for night photography), ability to shoot in challenging conditions, and reliability. I use a Leica SL2 with vintage lenses, but I've done documentary photography with everything from DSLRs to smartphones. The best camera for documentary photography is the one you'll actually carry with you when the moment happens. Don't let gear be an excuse for not starting!

How shooting with Zeiss Ikon Contina made me realize I am spoiled...

When I started out on my own in photography it was already the 90s so I really didn’t know how good things were at the time since I got a second hand Yashica SLR that was manual focus, but had Program mode for exposure control.

Once I got that camera it was a whole new world of photography since up to that point I had only owned the little “point and shoot” cameras that you could get for about 40$ at the time. Turns out those simple little cameras were a god send in technology compared to just a couple of decades earlier where we had cameras like the Zeiss Ikon Contina.

The SLR, being semi-automatic in nature, was like giving a driver of racecars his first stick shift car after driving automatics. It was a level of control that was hard to understand at first but soon became something that I looked forward to. This was because the rest of the exposure was being handled by the camera and I could easily confirm focus on the SLR as I was literally looking through the “taking lens” when focusing.

You see, the Zeiss Ikon Contina has none of these things. It doesn’t do anything for you automatically…at all. Here is the operational sequence to take a photo…

1. Find the scene you want to shoot.

2. Meter the light in the scene with the light meter.

3. Set the aperture based on film ISO.

4. Set the shutter speed also based on film ISO.

5. Guess the focus distance and set it on the lens.

6. Second guess yourself on focal distance and do it again…

7. Fire the frame and advance the film.

8. Repeat…at least once since you probably missed focus.

Notice how you have to guess the focus. That is because there is no way to visually confirm it other than looking at the numeric distance numbers on the lens and hoping you are good at range estimation. You literally have to rely on the range focus system and shoot stopped down if you really need the photo to be in focus, that is the only real way of getting it…well that and a tape measure…

Oh and that is a cold shoe on the top, not a coupled hot shoe so you have to use a sync cable that connects to the front of the camera to fire a flash module and I am not sure that is even a thing anymore…

The technology has advanced so much that we are to the point now where the camera has to focus PERFECTLY on the nearest eye of a moving subject…and that subject doesn’t even have to be a human either. On top of that we now expect the CAMERA to follow that subject while it and maybe even ourselves are moving and maintain that perfect focus as well! Isn’t it amazing how far the technology has evolved in less than the period of my mother’s lifetime?

So when I came into possession of the Contina, I was in Winchester England and didn’t know if it worked properly or not so I sent it home with my daughter as she was traveling home sooner. Once back home I proceeded to search out a reputable camera repair shop and sent the machine up to them for a full service. This also took a while so I finally get the camera back and take it out for its maiden voyage with me to shoot a roll and see what the lens could produce. This was also to test for light leaks to make sure it didn’t need light seals either, so in that vain, I shot the first roll then had it developed and scanned so I could check for light leaks. To be honest, I really liked the scans and that is what I used here and in the video as well.

Well, I was impressed to be quite honest about it . To lack any semblance of automation, this little camera came away with a surprisingly high number of keepers in my book. Now, I am not talking about Pulitzer prize winning “keepers” but rather properly focused and exposed photos. I did use my handheld light meter a lot that day, making adjustments to the camera as I went along to keep the exposure where I hoped it would make good photos.

I did have 400 speed Ilford HP5 in the camera so the maxed out shutter speed of 1/300 second was my only real choice when the sun was out fully. I then ran the aperture all the way down to make up for it so the images would be close to correctly exposed. I figured out once I got the camera back from service that it was designed for film from an era where there was no 400 speed film…yet.

Anyway, after spending the day with this camera I learned what it meant to be spoiled by the technology that we have today. It is akin to them getting this camera back then and the people doing wet plate talking about how good the new people have it. LOL. There really isnt anything new under the sun… Well, I still enjoy the little camera and I take it out on occasion for some “me” time where I will be by myself and just immerse myself into the activity of shooting with little camera.

Link to video on YouTube as well.

Support this website by using these affiliate links to shop on Amazon:

Leica M11 Digital Rangefinder Camera

Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 105mm f/1.4E ED Lens

Nikon FTZ II Mount Adapter

Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.4 II

Urth M adapter L

Sandisk 128GB Extreme Pro memory cards

Nikon Zf Mirrorless Camera

Nikon 50mm f1.8 S Lens for Z mount

My favorite Pocket Notebook

My favorite Mechanical Pencil

Charit Creek Lodge Off Grid Retreat

Charit Creek Lodge Off Grid Retreat

We decided to spend the night at this wonderful little place and this time, we came when it wasn’t scorching hot like last time.

Yes, we have been here before. This is why we like it. The quiet and serenity makes this place wonderful to get away to on occasion. I did charge my phone prior to leaving the parking area (which is a .8 mile hike from the lodge) so I could take pictures and write some thoughts about this article.

The hike into the grounds is a beautiful walk down into a valley…just remember that all things that go down must also go back up…to get to the card.

This was also an exercise in minimalism as I was planning on bringing a bunch of camera gear but then decided that I wanted to see if I could get good photos with only my iPhone.

The iPhone 14 Pro Max is a wonder of modern engineering and has so many capabilities that it will do a great job as a snapshot camera for trips like this.

The normal rig for forays such as this would normally be my Leica CL and the 35mm lens and possibly the 17mm as well to give me two options for field of view. This worked well in England to be quite honest and I really didn’t need any of the hot rod gear like my full frame Leica SL2 or the host of lenses for it. The little Leica CL has a more than capable 24 megapixel sensor that produces wonderful images. The larger Leica SL2 having a 47 megapixel sensor does give you more to work with as well as allowing you to print larger but at the end of the day I had to be honest with myself. I rarely print my photos and when I do they are in a photo book which isn’t more than 12 inches on the longest side. So I have started downsizing my load outs for trips like this.

Here is the hard facts. The iPhone captures snapshots so well with its measly 12 megapixels that you can print 8x10 just fine and no one will ever be the wiser. So this little overnight trip is a chance to test that as I will be stopping by a Walgreens and making some 4x6 prints as well as maybe even some 8x10 prints as well just to test the idea.

Back to Charit Creek a little. It is in Big South Fork Forest. This is either a state or federal forest, I am not sure which, but it is a huge tract of protected land and Charit Creek is in the middle of it. Hence the “unplugged” nature of the operation.

When you get here, you quickly notice the lack of electricity. Even the kitchen that cooks the huge communal meals doesn’t have much more than some solar power. All of the cabins are rustic styled with wood burning stoves for heat and screen windows for AC.  They are more akin to bunk houses than cabins actually but they are nice nonetheless.

There is a plethora of games and outside activities to do (even though I wrote this blog using my well charged iPhone)… There are also copious fire rings and PLENTY of firewood is on hand for all the lodges needs. The firewood does cost you money but it isn’t that much and you get way more than you really need for what you pay. For details like that, contact the lodge as I don’t know when you are reading this and prices could have changed between now and your current time. Suffice it to say that prices are not extreme in any way.

There is also a bathhouse with showers should you want to bring shower gear with you. (I didn’t since I will be home tomorrow afternoon and can just bathe when I get home). The main lodge has the dining hall as well as guest rooms on one end and plenty of porch space containing a metric ton of rocking chairs.

The provided meals are supper and breakfast with lunch being left to you to figure out (with a few exceptions). The meals are huge though so you can probably make it from one to the next easily enough. There is a copious amount of hiking around the lodge with one trail going to a waterfall.

Happened to catch Venus the next morning while stoking the campfire.

Another thing the lodge specializes in is accommodating horseback riders. Complete with hitching posts and a horse barn with stables near the lodge. There are numerous horse back riding trails in the surrounding area as well and there is even a sectioned off parking lot just for equestrian rigs where you leave your vehicle while at Charit Creek Lodge.

I do not know the history of the lodge but the whole property makes me think that this was a homestead at some point in the 19th century what with the construction techniques used to build the buildings. I could be wrong and they could be newer but these logs look period correct for the late 1800s.

The buildings make for really interesting photography subject matter so once we got here and stowed our gear, I made my way around and grabbed some photos of everything. The whole time I was doing this, I was attempting to capture the “feel” of the whole place. I have come to do this more and more as time goes on. There is already a metric ton of photos of Charit Creek Lodge floating around on the web, so I need to do something different if I want something unique and interesting that stands out from the ordinary.

Side note: I found out that I really should have brought my camera as I was informed that the milky way has been visible the last few nights…. Lol. You never know what to expect.  I don’t regret not bringing my cameras though as it defeats the purpose of traveling light weight. Sometimes you just need to enjoy the event instead of worrying about documenting it for others.

I saw the following tonight:

• The Milky Way

• The starlink satellite train

• Many other satellites

• The glow worms in the grass

• We heard the great horned owls calling each other

• The barn cat (trust me on this one)

I also learned that the iPhone has a low light mode where it will do a long exposure and get great photos in super low light. I was blown away by what it could do when photographing the campfire. Just take a look!

These are 1/5 second exposures! Yeah, that is cool. They are also ISO 10,000 but it does some sort of noise reduction and it looks good.

Sometimes you don’t have to plan out this huge package of gear for a trip to be successful for photography, you just need to be creative with your smartphone and go have a good time. We as photographers want to over complicate what we need to get good photos. Most people don’t even care what camera was used to get the picture or honestly will assume you used your smartphone anyway.

Isn’t it interesting how we will do that? HaHaHa… Anyway, back to Charit Creek Lodge for a little longer. When you leave you have to return back to your car out on the same trail you came in on, the difference this time is that it is uphill almost the entire way so if your fitness level isn’t high I would suggest taking your time so you don’t over exert yourself.

Once back at the truck you can “reconnect” to the internet via cellular data and get back to the world. That is how I am able to share this story with you. Ironic isnt it? I use the internet to communicate how NOT being on the internet is a good thing. Anyway, I hope you enjoyed the photos and the story and if you want to look into Charit Creek Lodge, follow the links provided. Thank you for following along and I hope to see you in the next one.

Reviewing the 58mm f2 Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar M42 mount lens

When Aaron offered to loan me his 58mm, I had no idea that it was a Zeiss and over 60 years old.

Well, it didn’t take long to figure that out and to round up a simple M42 to Leica L mount adapter so I could get this lens on my Leica SL2.

The next thing I did was look the lens over really closely. The usual controls are there of aperture and focus but it has a third ring as well. This ring is spring loaded and is some sort of adjustable stop for the minimum aperture. This is how it works, you pull the ring towards the camera, compressing the spring. While the spring is compressed, you rotate the ring and align a mark on it with the aperture you want it to stop at. Once here, release the spring and it will seat in this position stopping the aperture ring from stopping down past this point. This was for cameras back in the day as you had to meter the scene manually then set the aperture for the meter value. To compose though, you needed all the light you could get so you set the ring for the aperture you plan to shoot the photo at then you would open the aperture all the way to see good and get good focus. Once this was done, you could simply spin the aperture ring to the stop and it was set to the metered value and you didnt even have to come off the camera to do it. Pretty slick if you ask me.

Another item of note is that the aperture ring is ”clickless” or in other words, it simply turns smoothly through the range without any detents to locate it at specific settings.

The next thing I noticed is that the machine work is impeccable…which I have grown to expect no less from the German people. The focus ring is smooth as silk even with its advanced years. Quite the opposite of some of my other lenses to be quite honest.

Something else I noticed is that the lens has incredible close focus with about 330 degrees of focus throw. Of that 330 degrees it devotes probably 250 degrees to close focus. Crazy precise focus for a lens this old. The first 1/4 turn though is the normal use range so it will go from infinity to 2.5 meters in that 1/4 turn and then the rest of the throw is for close range work. Pretty neat how the normal range stuff is in such a short throw so you can get focus fast with it. Just a little practice and you a can get street photos of moving subjects and fairly large apertures in focus. You just learn how to use it with some time.

It is not a bad lens in any way either, just look at the photo of Teresa I got at the local state park one day with it. Razor sharp and great rendition too. This is what makes vintage lenses so cool, they still got it…

It also works great for a general purpose walk around lens too. I liked using it for my photowalks where I would jus grab a photo here and there of things that caught my eye and it would render these scenes really well.

So if you are into the vintage glass “look” then I might suggest grabbing one of these old girls if you can find one and adapting it to your mirrorless camera to see what you can get with it. I think you will be pleasantly surprised.

Fulaim X5 Wireless Microphone System Review

So a company reached out to me and asked if I wanted to take a look at their wireless microphone system and I agreed. I am really glad I did too. They sent me a review sample for free and I am happy to say it works exactly as advertised…at least it does from what I tested.

Link to my YouTube video is here: Fulaim X5 Microphone Video

Fulaim X5 Webpage

You see these kinds of products usually have some sort of glaring issue that makes them basically unusable for the most part, but this one is different. It actually works as advertised.

So Fulaim sent me the X5 kit to test and write a review on and when it came in I noticed right away that they were really wanting this to have a great presentation. The box is the kind you normally associate with Apple products, the really nice heavy type of card board. So once everything is out of that box, the first thing I noticed was that the charge case is setup for just the microphones and receiver, but the receiver is normally used with the mic cable and there is nowhere to store this cable… Small detail, but frustrating as on the very first outing to test the mics, I forgot this very cable…I attempted to use a AUX cable I had in the truck but it was apparently bad and introduced a ton of noise into the audio, lesson here, check your kit before you leave…

So once I get a good cable and go back out, I tested the Fulaim X5 microphone on my Leica SL2, this camera actually records great video and will record 4k video as well, so I figured I would experiment with the microphones on this camera and also shoot in 4k for a change too.

The charge case is a cool device, when you put the mics and receiver in it and close the lid, it turns them off and starts charging them, when you open the lid, it wakes all three of them up and sets them in motion communicating. That is nice. The battery life on the Fulaim X5 mics and receiver is supposed to be on the order of 9 hours, I would say it is probably closer to 4 or 5 in reality as the 9 hour claim is said for offline recording so if it is powering the radios, then it will be less. But still I have used it for several hours on two different occasions and have not have one die yet in a normal session. The charge case will charge them from dead to full charge twice before needing recharging itself too. This is nice as you are not hunting an outlet after juicing up the mics one time.

In the video above, I test the main factors that matter to me for a microphone I use to make YouTube videos. Distance from the camera that the audio is still good on, extreme distance function, audio fidelity, and offline recording for getting simple audio like wild sounds or when you need dialog for voice over but don’t need video with it too. It passed all of these tests with ease and done very well to be honest. The audio quality is first rate and I couldn’t tell if it was the Zoom F2 (which I have to sync in post) or the Fulaim X5 (which I do not have to sync in post)

There are so many little Easter egg type features built into them that it is hard to keep up, like the spring clip on the mics is made of steel from what I can figure and there is a round rare earth magnet with one so you can magnetically stick it to the lapel of a jacket and hide the mic behind the lapel with only the little black magnet showing. This is brilliant. The spring clips are sized so they will slip directly into a camera hot shoe, so you don’t need a hot shoe adapter at all. There is a port for a lav mic on each transmitter, there is also a port on the receiver for headphones to monitor the audio with, the wind muffs are made with little locks to keep them from falling off the mics, the mics will record in offline mode without the need for memory cards as there is 4GB of internal storage in each mic, You can USB charge them so if the charge case is dead, they can still be charged, they are compatible with smart phones and can be USB connected to laptop computers so you can have wireless mic support for things like zoom meetings…the list goes on but you get the point.

Can I recommend this microphone? Absolutely, the copy I have works perfectly and if this is the production version, you will love it too. They sell them direct on their website but I don’t get anything if you buy one, so don’t worry about using an affiliate link or some such, just get one and use it. Simple as that.

Fulaim Website for the X5 Microphone Kit

What matters more? Gear or skill?

I raise this question because there is no shortage of people from both camps on YouTube.

The odd thing is that the overwhelming majority of my channel views come from my gear review videos. Not from skill building type videos where we talk about things that you can use with the gear to get better photos.

The underlying theme with people using youtube seems to be “the right gear will make me the photographer I hope for”. I’m sorry if that stings a little as I am just calling it like I see it.

I am not 100% certain about this determination though as I have no way of proving this assumption. It may be that my skill building videos are just way worse than my gear reviews videos. That could be a fair point to be honest as it is common knowledge that I am not very good at video.

My observation though is overwhelming leaning in this direction. The reason for this is that other youtubers also make this observation as well. You hear them talk about how the gear doesn’t make the photographer over and over. Why is that?

I think it is because people dont place as much value on skill learning as they do on tangible items like cameras and lenses. Have you tried to sell your skill to someone in tough times? How about some item you had that was tangible… like say your camera? Deep down I think people place value on tangible items because they know they can cash in on them later, but once they pay for and attend a workshop, that money is gone forever in their eyes. Even though they came away with an amazing experience and new skills, we in the western culture have been trained to place value on the tangible. How many times did I hear as a kid about not “blowing” my money on cheap trinkets or things like going to the fair and playing the games? It was all to common in my little corner of the planet.

Lots of people don’t have much disposable income to spend on things like workshops, or so they believe. I see it more in the realm of Leica more so than other brands because I will see a lens come up for sale that is literally like brand new but they HAVE used it some. They just want to retain as much resale value as possible so they are very careful with it so as to not scratch it up from use. It will basically be new even though it had been used to capture images in the past. This is telling in that they never planned to keep the equipment and placed more importance on resale value than using the gear. Otherwise there would be signs of use on the gear and a lot more photos in the catalog. Now, I know that is a little bit hyperbole as well, but you get the point.

The point is that it seems like for YouTube viewers, the gear matters more. I can’t figure it out either, why not go shoot street in London for a weekend? How cool would that be? It is reachable, just use the same lens you have been using and spend the “new lens money” on the trip instead. Precious few of us will do that though…And that is sad.

Just some food for thought, not really being critical…much…just thought it was interesting to see that and wanted to share my thoughts on it.

Astrhori 18mm F8 Tilt Shift Lens Review

Camera gear is a interesting thing. ESPECIALLY for photographers as they love collecting it for some reason or another. I have reviewed quite a few lenses over the years on this channel, but never a tilt-shift version of anything. This is because these lenses are very specialized and usually very expensive too. Not having a focal length that I normally use is also another reason I have not bought one before.

Well, Phil Thach was contacted by Pergear about a lens they we’re launching and he recommended me to them. Thank you Phil, I appreciate the contact.

So after some emails, they sent me the sample lens for review. This particular unit did not come in a box but rather just a heavy ziplock bag. I am pretty sure the actual retail variant will be in a really nice box, so don’t worry about that. The lens is really neat for what is happening with it. You see, this little guy has a couple of cool features that most other lenses in the range do not have and it lacks on feature that almost all of the others does have.

The lens has the shift feature from “tilt/shift” lenses without the tilt function. It also has a rotation feature that allows the user to index the shift feature in 45 degree increments. So if you need it to correct vertically, you can do that. It will only shift in one axis at a time as well. This isn’t a real problem though as the intended use case for this lens is correcting converging lines on architecture and such. So you set the shift axis to match you framing and there you have it.

It will shift 6mm in each direction from center and this is more than enough for almost all scenarios. It does vignette the corners on full frame at the extreme ends of this range but carerful application of photo editing software should be able to fix this.

While using this lens, I have learned a few things about it though that I would like to share with you if you are consider getting one of these lenses for architectural photography. Honestly, I cant recommend it. If you plan to be a serious architectural photographer, it is worth the money if you want to dabble in this type of photography, just to see if you are interested because it is a cheaper alternative than a full on tilt/shift lens from any of the major manufacturers. But it lacks certain features that those lenses possess and that makes it more difficult to work with. Also, the build quality is lower than the Nikon and Canon alternatives and makes this lens less desirable in that manner as well. Another problem is that it is a fixed f-stop lens and it is 18 mm only. Traditionally, tilt shift lenses can be had in multiple focal lengths other than 18mm and variable F stops, this one has neither of those functionalities. It is a neat little pancake lens that is easy to use as a street photography lens on a crop sensor camera though, so when I put it on my Leica CL it worked wonderfully for just point shooting.

The F8 aperture and the 18 mm focal length gives you very deep depths of field that makes most everything in focus in your photos. So simple that it only required you to do little more than point the camera at the subject and fire the shutter. This is very beneficial for street photography purposes. A problem kept arising though, when I was shooting street photography with it using my Leica CL was that if I bump the lens, it would shift it or just letting it ride on a camera strap around my neck would be enough inertial force to shift the lens off axis. This is a problem as you could guess. So I really do not recommend this lens unless you were into novelty lenses or you were wanting to dabble in architectural photography with a little correcting shift lens, otherwise I would honestly say do not buy this lens and spend your money on something else.

My loadout for flying with camera gear.

Traveling over the years to locations that require flying commercial has taught me a few things about what to take.

I once carried almost everything I owned when I traveled so I was sure to have whatever I needed for a certain photographic event. Well, with time comes wisdom… I have been adjusting the loadout and searching for the best solution as far as bags go and have finally found the perfect setup…FOR ME. You see, different people have different needs and your loadout will vary depending on your personal needs and wants.

When I traveled early on, I carried a large shoulder bag, very large mind you and a ton of kit in it. I had to fill it up you know! Lol.

Well after a couple of trips like that, I learned that I needed a different bag. So the giant Vanguard bag was retired and replaced with a Thinktank Airport International v2. This was a nice upgrade and allowed me to travel with more confidence in knowing my gear was protected better and it was also a roller bag! No more lugging that massive shoulder bag all over creation!!!

Well, I still use this bag from time to time, but only for roadtrips in my truck. The irony of this statement is not lost on me. I bought a literal aircraft carry own style, camera bag and now I dont even take it when I fly at all.

Thinktank Photo Airport International 2.0

So I learned the hard way something about marketing with this bag. Thinktank Photo will tell you, probably with an asterisk, that this bag will fit in standard overhead spaces. This isn’t so and I learned this the hard way on a trip coming home from Hawaii one year. On the last leg of our long journey, we boarded a small commuter jet and the overhead storage bins were just too small. This is when I got a VERY sick feeling in the pit of my stomach. You see, this meant I had to valet check this bag at this point. If you have never watched baggage handlers loading luggage then you dont know the horror movie I was imagining my expense and fragile camera gear was about to experience. They can be quite rough with check bags, we have had them arrive at baggage claim with wheels missing and such. So I tell the flight attendant my plight and she saves the day by stowing my roller bag of camera gear in what amounts to her broom closet. I almost cried in appreciation. That was the straw the broke the cameras back of roller bags for me.

Pictured here are the Peak Design Everyday Messenger bag and the Thinktank photo street walker backpack.

After the Airport International “incident”, I decided I needed to downsize my kit for multiple reasons. The main one being that I didn’t want to have to valet check my bag because it wouldn’t fit in the overhead bin.

The next reason is the most important though. I was tired of carrying gear I didn’t use or even need.

Taken with the Nikon Z50 handheld and using the kit lens.

So I decided to get something new and smaller. I chose something that had been on the market for just a short time at this point. I chose a Peak Design Everyday Messenger Bag. It is a wonderful way to carry camera gear for the most part with one exception. I cant really carry my big telephoto lens I use for wildlife. I tried it for a couple of years and at the time, I was using a large system consisting of a Nikon D810 with battery grip and the 200-500mm super zoom lens. This combination is very large and would leave me with room for just a couple of smaller lenses. It also came with another problem…pain. Single strap bags are great as long as they are not heavy, which is exactly what mine was at this point in time. So the search continues and I found another Thinktank Photo bag.

The next bag I chose was the Streetwalker v2. This is a smaller bag that is backpack style and is really comfortable. The single shoulder strap on the messenger bag would make my shoulder incredibly sore after just a couple of hours of carry. I tried this for a couple of years and paid the price. The streetwalker solved that problem in short order. It was at this point in my photography journey that I was finding smaller cameras like the Fuji XT3. I took this camera to Israel for a ten day trip and it was on this trip that my eyes were opened to carrying excessive equipment is wasteful. I took three lenses with me and only used one of them. Yes, I used the KIT LENS for the whole trip and it worked gloriously!!! All the while I was carrying around all this other crap and just getting back to the kibbutz tired every day.

Current travel load out, Z50, 500mm PF, 16-50mm Z Kit, and 10-20mm F mount Nikkor/FTZ adapter.

Well, I finally figured out that the smaller pack was the way to go, but it really didn’t have room for the big wildlife rig I liked to use… It also had one other critical shortcoming that I noticed from regular use. The pack opened to the top when unzipped. What this means is you take off the pack and lay the side that normally sits against your back, on the ground facing down to access the gear area. At this point, I was doing a great deal of photowalks and hikes to waterfalls and such and this caused lots of dirt on the back of my shirt… To say this was frustrating is an understatement but I carried on till…

Enter the Thinktank Photo Retrospective 15L. For my needs, this is as close to perfect for a camera bag as I have ever found. It opens from the back, the side against my body which means you lay to outside one the ground, keeping all the leaves, twigs and dirt off of my shirt. It is slightly larger (15 liters in size) so there is room for my wildlife kit. It is REALLY comfortable and it is made of stone washed canvas. So it has a nice look (it doesn’t look like a nylon camera bag) and has a great feel. This is a hallmark of Thinktank Photo from what I have seen. Their backpacks are very comfortable. So now that I have landed on the perfect camera bag after almost a decade of searching, I can now shift focus to the gear I put in it.

Taken with the Nikon Z50 with the FTZ Adapter and the 500mm PF Amount lens.

The gear loadout for my photography usually involves at least two bodies, three general purpose lenses and then my special purpose lenses and all the support gear too. Like a whole cleaning kit complete with blower bulb, dry wipes, wet wipes and solution and sensor swabs… way too many batteries, like I must have thought I was going to take 10,000 photos per day or something. I never needed most of this crap either. I mean almost none of it. What I had was a case of “fill’er up” syndrome. If there was bag space I felt compelled to put something in that space for some reason. This is a terrible way to operate if I must say. You end up tired, sore and resentful of the hobby as you brought all this kit for nothing.

The Nikon Z50 with kit lens makes for a powerful little general photography kit.

So this trip, the bag is scaled WAY back. I mean, there is room in the bag for stuff and nothing is in those pockets. This is a milestone for me, as I am a prepper at heart and want to cover every conceivable contingency under my normal mindset. To be honest, I probably brought at least one lens more than I will need and could have lightened the load some more there, but we will see. So my takeaway from all this is, your hobby is a journey and you will have to figure out your kit for that hobby as you go. For me, it is still an ongoing journey to be honest. Hopefully I can stop spending tons of money on it and just enjoy it. Let’s be realistic though, probably not…Lol.

Altering the world around us with strobes and a camera...

There is an alter ego that I have and sometimes I have to do things as this other person that dont seem quite so glamorous… This is the job of product photographer. I have a business that makes and sells little devices and I have to take photos of these for the website and then edit them to be “floating” on a white background. This is pretty standard stuff to be honest, not “cool” but still very much needed and important.

Anyway…I also get to do some of the social media photos and on occasion, I will go to the trouble of setting up a light and trying to make something artistic instead of the usual Instagram snapshot.

For product photos, I have bought some studio strobe kits from amazon and these run on wall power and have sync ports to fire them, they also sympathetically fire from a light sensor if you turn that feature on as well. Simple strobe with a power knob and you plug in a sync cable and plug that cable into your camera.

Your camera doesn’t have a sync port you say? No problem, I also use an adapter from Nikon to allow a sync cable to be connected to any camera with a hot shoe on it, which is almost all cameras. So if you want to use a studio strobe and it requires a sync cable, then fear not, I have a solution for you!

I really like to use the sync cable and wall powered strobes as I really dislike batteries and avoid them whenever possible. It just seems that EVERY SINGLE TIME I go to do something with my radio trigger (I have owned several pocket wizards in the past), they would be dead, needing charged batteries. This really is annoying in the commercial setting when time is of the essence and hunting batteries or having to charge them before I can do a project is frustrating to say the least. Hence the sync cable…not batteries and works EVERY TIME…

So this is the photo I got the other day. It was late morning and the machine shop was in full operation. Knowing what I know about strobes and aperture, it was a non-issue though.. I grabbed one of the lights and take it out to the shop floor and rig it to shine down from overhead. I am fortunate in the Sierra thought to grab a photo of the setup for me by the off chance she wanted to see what I got versus what she got. Sierra was blown away by the difference in our images, she had to have the one I captured to show her friends so they would understand why I had such a silly setup just for a photo! LOL.

I wanted a spot where the background was still fairly clear of clutter and we moved a couple of items out of the way to make it a cleaner “in camera” image, but for the most part, you will see in Sierra’s photo that the shop has a lot of stuff sitting everywhere.

To keep the light positioned like that, I just wedged the high leg under a rolling cart that is just outside of frame. This way I could get the light down low and parallel to the floor. This stand is budget and doesn’t have a feature to do this built in. Improvised and got the shot.

I laid down in the floor and manually focused a vintage 75-150mm Pentax zoom lens and got this SOOC photo. I did a few images at different flash powers to get the carbine exposed the way I wanted.

You can see the soft box in the top part of the photo, but since I was going to fade the background to black anyway, it is a non-issue. I next imported the image into GIMP and cropped it to get rid of the excess floor and ceiling, then just painted out the light that was left over. Simple as that. The next step was to take it into my phone and run it through an app I have there called Afterlight. This app allows for several adjustments that I enjoy using, but it also has a framing feature as well and that is my primary desire for the app, so I framed it and then put it on the Gram… Done. You cant see the frame on here because the background is white on this webpage, but on Instagram it shows up just fine, and gives it a very clean appearance.

My takeaway from this whole article is this: you are not tied to the light you see around you. If you have a strobe then all bets are off as to what you can do with your camera. Don’t let yourself get caught up in the mindset that you can only shoot “available light”, that limits you greatly. Build the light in the scene yourself and you will never be beholding to the sun again!

Now get your camera out and go take a picture with it!

Chattanooga Life #5

Tonight I was waiting on a phone call from the wife about bringing some food to her and thought I would grab a few photos while I was there. I used my Leica CL and the 35mm Elmarit lens and tried to capture what it felt like to be out tonight while it started to rain. This is an example of seeing the setup and taking the time to get the photos while the conditions were right, the time passed pretty quickly and once it was dark, I had to completely change the way I was looking at the scene and come up with new compositions that didnt involve the sky. These photos are not technically in Chattanooga, but Trenton Ga is in the greater Chattanooga area so I consider it basically a suburb of Chattanooga. I had to work the scene pretty hard as the light diminished pretty rapidly due to it being blue hour when I started. Raining is part of street photography and these moody clouds really helped set the mood. What is your favorite time and conditions to capture street photos?

Chattanooga Life #3

With the coming of fall in the air, people are starting to get outside a little more, even though the pandemic is far from over… I honestly think people are simply getting tired of being scared of it and are just going back to daily life with the added inconvenience of wearing face coverings. Horse and buggy rides are back in operation and people are enjoying the time spent with them. I’m personally glad to see people getting on with life…#streetphotography #photography

Chattanooga Life #2

“Windowshopping with dad” This image was taken on Market Street 31 JUL 2020

I wonder what she is telling him… Chattanooga street photography is a lot of fun.

Chattanooga Life #1

Ok, so this is going to become something that I work on regularly for the next couple of years. The plan is to post a square photo of something to do with life in Chattanooga as viewed through my lens a few times a week. The first one is of a fellow on a bicycle on Cherokee Street, this city is very “outdoorsy” if you have never been here.

If all goes as I hope, these street photography photos will form a life of their own and might just become a book at some point… I hope you enjoy them as I share them. ~David Saylors